|
|
Discussion on Lots of General Questions on Hoofs, Natural Trim
|
| Author |
Message |
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 1:27 pm:
DrO,
Fellow Self-Taught Trimmers,
and Trimmer Wannabees,
and all knowledgeable hoof folks,
I have 3 years under my rasp ;-), trimming my 4 horses. I've had periods of being 110% confident I was doing great, and times like now, where I have questions I don't recall reading the answers to any place else. Don't mean the questions haven't been answered; most likely my middle aged brain is overloaded!
So here are a bunch of general questions that keep popping up in my head:
1. What is the purpose of cutting out the soleus? (frog cleft)
2. What does it mean if the there is no "gap" there; the frog is one big flat fleshy thickness? (protection?)
3. If I cut away a thrushy frog, at what point would I need padding to keep the frog in contact with the ground so that is functions as the pump mechanism it is meant to be?
4. Guidelines for cutting away thrushy frog?
5. How long should it take for a new healthy frog to grow back in?
6. Cracks in the sole; should the sole be carved out until the cracks disappear? (false sole?)
7. Craters in the sole; also need to be carved out? (Yes, picture the surface of the moon, I've seen that on one of my horses hoofs, basically gone now)
8. What would cause the craters if the horse is always on pasture, not rocky soil?
Diet?
9. White Line "Disease" ("Disease" is questionable to some I guess) How can digging that out be good if you are also keeping the stretched white line/flare open?
10. If beveling isn't tightening flares, what else do I look at?
11. Bars; what does it mean if the bars are almost non-existant? How can I get more bars to grow in?
12. I hate to even bring this up, need a degree in nutrition, yet I am wondering if anyone has a good vitamin or micro mineral supplement that they found makes a difference in growing a great hoof? I don't mean hoof supplements in general, more naturalist thinking.
Thanks in advance for any insights anyone can offer. And forgive me if these seem to be things I should know!
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 1:49 pm:
Angie, I'll post the link to the DVD we were discussing here since it's more topical. Natural Balance Hoof Trimming. Two thumbs up! https://www.hopeforsoundness.com/edss/store/educateprod.html This is a two disc set (I called to order as I couldn't get this to show up on the product order page. It was $35.00 plus $5.00 shipping.
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 1:51 pm:
The phone number is (719) 372-SHOE.
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 2:20 pm:
Angie good questions!!!! I would like to add very basic questions, they took me a long time to grasp and am still having problems with them sometimes, I also see other people grapple with it in some posts.
Long toes, I am guilty of just recently not thinking Flash had long toes, they don't LOOK long if you glance at her from a lateral view, they actually look kind of short. Then turn over to solar view and if we even go 50% her toe is LONG. I am going to add pics ( I am a visual person!)
This is from today
Her lateral view, not an overly long looking toe??
Solar view...YIKES looks quite long if I am close to the widest part of the hoof(I think my line should be a tad higher) (which is another question) I believe that is at the true appex of the frog...Anyone is that correct???
I think if us beginners can reconize how long the toe is by viewing the solar view it would be very helpful and maybe quite shocking!
Then there are the heels..sigh I get so confused by them I don't even know where to begin!!! BUT unfortunately for you guys I will be back with questions
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 3:34 pm:
BTW, as a precaution from Diane loading this discussion up with pictures, I did NUMBER my questions so hopefully that helps keep things straight.
And No Diane, I am not upset at all, your questions are my questions too! I just haven't taken pictures forever and a day, it's been soo windy I don't feel comfortable under a horse! And the few non cyclone days have been work as much as possible outside doing spring things.
Julie, I was going to order the DVD's, but just got a major surprise bill! On top of just putting 2 new sets of tires on our cars. So back to READING lots.
Anyone have a brain implosion icon?!? 
BTW, it appears Flash has good concavity?
|
Member:
rtrotter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 4:18 pm:
Angie,
I am going to take a whack at 6,7, and 8 since they all have something to do with the sole.
6, Horses naturally exfoliate their soles, some faster than others. Those cracks you see are where the sole has broken away and then been somewhat smoothed over by that particular horses wear pattern. So, unless the sole is naturally falling off( flaking), I wouldn't pare out the sole at all. There is also a big difference between exfoliating sole and false sole. Exfoliating sole happens on a daily basis, false sole is an attempt by the horse to protect itself and usually happens after something either metabolically or physically happens to the horse( founder, laminitis, illness etc.) The horse will eventually get rid of the false sole and I wouldn't touch that either except under extreme circumstances.
The simple answer to deal with exfoliating sole is more work on harder surfaces (gradually).
Question 7 is mainly an extension of question 6 and question 8 is yes diet and exercise have a lot to do with the craters ( or should I say generally healthy feet, as the craters may where the exfoliating sole has fallen off in a chunk and the pasture surface is just not tough enough on their hooves to help them wear away the exfoliation down to the sole plane.
Good feet are a product of good nutrition, good hoof care and the right amount of exercise. Most of us have the nutrition down and the hoof care, but its the exercise that makes them grow their feet and fix themselves and I think that's the part that is lacking, not always but in some cases.
Rachelle
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 4:34 pm:
Flash has very nice concavity .
Heels .
I have read that you should take the heels down to almost the sole plane..some say even to the sole plane...how do you determine where the heels should be (as far as height???)
Under run heels... will just keeping the toe on a march back make the heels go where they belong??? They almost have to don't they??
If we look at the pictures above of Flashes hooves, once again her heel doesn't look all that run under, if we look at the solar view they appear to be run under... In person they don't look run under...they look high.
WHY do some horses grow a high heel...as in Flashes case and WHY do some horses heels run under at the DrOp of a hat as in Hanks case???? If we go the genetics route remember they are mother son, and have been on the same terrain their whole lives. I know sire comes into play here too BUT!!!
Angie I will try to keep the pics under control
I don't know if you recall in Hanks last part I was going to rasp that flare that has been driving me nuts pretty aggressively.. As in your question why won't flares go away???
Well I rasped the heck out of that flare.. it was making absolutely no contact with the ground anywhere when I was done. He was a little tender on hard ground, but not bad. I just looked at it today and wow what an improvement I think if I stay after it now I may conquer the darn thing!!! We have had gale force winds too and haven't been messing with hooves or much of anything with the horses. I was going to take a picture of Hanks hoof today to show the improvement and my batteries were dead! I am going to get some at feed time.
What would really help me is just lines on a hoof that represent heel, toe, ect. and how it is determined if they are run under, contracted or high from the solar view.
Which is a better map... solar view or lateral/AP views???
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 4:36 pm:
Diane, I don't know how to mark the picture, but the heels are too far forward which makes her toe look even longer. Confusing, because her lateral pic looks like a short toe! The point of the heel should be about back where the buttresses of the frog are--the widest part of the frog. Hard to believe she grew this much since the farrier did her feet. I wonder if he knows he should have those heels back? If that excess wall were gone and her heels back, she'd be better balanced. What's confusing to me is that looking at that sole shot, it's easy to see what she needs. The lateral shot looks like a totally different foot! If we only go by what's apparent in the photo, the DVD above explains what the heels need very clearly and how they should look when done.
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 5:03 pm:
Julie I know her lateral and her solar view do look like a completely different hoof. I took about ten pics of the lateral view, I laid on the ground (which was wet!) and in person her heel doesn't look under run, it looks high. Her toe does look short in person and in the lateral view.. her hoof is more confusing than Hanks!!
Angie I hope I am not getting off track here, I am using Flashes hoof as an example more than anything. I will keep her "problems" in her own thread.
So many of us struggle with poor farriers and our horses show the results of this, I think this is a very good thread to educate novices and even people who know their hooves. Thanks for starting it. even if we don't want to take a rasp in hand at least we should know what to look for.
Since winter has returned to IL. I am going to get a pic of Hanks hoof tonight and if I can get a good one draw some lines... to see if I know the landmarks of the hoof and hopefully it will help others who struggle right a long with us to at least know a problem when it presents itself. How to fix them is another thing!!
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 5:14 pm:
Diane, according to the video and the two trimmers I had here, take the heel down to the live sole plane. I probably leave a bit more than that (one or two swipes with the big girl rasp), but they didn't. They are just more confident than I am. None of the four horses I had trimmed by them took a lame step! And it makes a huge difference in the look of the foot. The DVD shows using the toe callus as a mapping point too.
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 6:24 pm:
JFI everyone, I sent the questions to my long distance hoof gal helper. She did reply but wants pictures of course. Some I can provide as they apply to my hoofs, but not all.
Some of her replies: (And I am not saying her way is the only way of course ;-), I appreciate any and all feedback!)
Some paraphrasing here:
1. Never cuts out the little "cleft"
2. thick frogs good!
3. the back of the frog, bulbs should have contact tapering off passive to the apex of the frog. All frog contact could cause pain, contracted heels.
4. Cut away what's rotten, don't cut into live. (o.k., makes sense to me, nothing new)
5. I loved this answer, makes me think: What causes the thrush? Degeneration of the frog. Regeneration not quick enough because the blood vessels that run along the top of the bars are pinched. Restore hoof function, thrush takes care of itself. (Now that opens a kettle of worms, huh?)
6,7, 8...Rachelles answer good, my LD helper needs pictures.
9. TRUE WLD very rare in her opinion, so the black line we see isn't WLD? Hmmm...I've heard that before.
10. Ask what is causing the capsule/horn to spread. BARS (she's always on me about BARS!!)and a too short hoof can cause flares (??) INsists quarter flares are BAR problem.
11. ?? Guess the bars are there, again, pictures needed.
Guess I need to get NEW pictures and more info. Looks like I may spend Mother's day under my horses, laying on the ground, camera in hand.
Thanks Rachelle for your answers. And yes, exercise is what's lacking for my 4, and different types of ground.
Diane,
You and anyone who has questions/answers/pictures are welcome to put them on this discussion. It's your call if it should be on another discussion or not, but these things always cross reference!
I hope no one feels insulted (?) when I also get feedback from my hoof helper? It's surely not to undermine any one's input here! Study hoofs long enough, and you'll find some things that ALWAYS apply...until, OOPS, what about this situation??
Julie,
I may need to study the "mapping" of the hoof too. I've been avoiding that!
Ugh, we had winter here last night also, wet heavy snow. Can't get rain, but get snow once a month! Hopefully no snow in June, July, and August, lol!
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 9:06 pm:
OK here is a very basic question, yet I am not sure of the ans.
Red Line is that where the heel ends???
Black line is that the heel points??? Do we want the black line where the red line is??
IF that is the case there would be no collateral groove.. don't we want CG's????
IOW is the space between the red and black line what is "run under" or to far forward????
Blue line...kind of confusing, way back when I first started asking about Hanks hoof and the widest part of the hoof was referred to, I took that literally, actually since I have been reading up on it it would seem it is the true appex of the frog, which is ABOUT a quarter in. from the tip of the frog..Do I have that right yet????? These basics are very helpful, yet I am not 100% sure I have it right.
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 9:39 pm:
Diane, we just cross posted on your thread! Red line is the widest part of the frog. Black line is your current heel point. Ideally, heel points should be almost to red line. Yes, that's the run under part. You will still have collateral grooves. Look at your other thread, I marked where I'd take the heels. To find the widest part of the foot think literally. You had it right on your other picture. The true point of the frog is where the frog grows out of the sole at the very tip. It's useful for determining breakover, especially when you're putting on Natural Balance shoes. You probably shouldn't have more than 3/4 of an inch from Hank's frog point to breakover. It would be different on a bigger or smaller horse. I don't think your blue line has any useful meaning. A bit forward and it might be the toe pillars. Breakover would be about where that toe callus is I think. I feel like I have just enough knowledge to be annoying if not dangerous!
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 10:48 pm:
Me too Julie,(enough knowledge to be dangerous)
OK the widest part of the hoof can't be determined literally I don't think. You could have a flare anywhere and that would be the widest part of the hoof then... right?? So if I had a big ole flare say at the toe pillars that would be the widest part. SOOO I had to go looking as usual, because I wasn't sure of my statement above, but yes according to ovenick since we have his reference here the widest part of the hoof is about an inch from the tip of the frog.... scroll down a bit...he has lines on a hoof too just not a real hoof which helps I think.
https://www.hopeforsoundness.com/education/articles/handouts/hoofcaretip1.html
Tho I believe bringing the heels and toe back at the same time will help to keep the heel in check, I think keeping after the long toe will eventually bring the heel back. JMHO
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 11:07 pm:
After looking more at those pics I see why I am confused, now Hanks heel points are back by his frog as they should be....where my red line is. Where my black line is is what??? I don't know If we drew a line on the website pic, here maybe I can add it to see what I'm talking about, there I put a green line where hanks Black line is what's the difference?? his CG's are wider I guess that is the problem?? Now Flashes hoof looks eerily like the distorted hoof!
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Saturday, May 8, 2010 - 11:43 pm:
Your black line is where his heel points are.
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Sunday, May 9, 2010 - 8:35 am:
So what does line B represent on the diagram above, I drew a green line where the Heel points are on that and Hanks aren't terribly far from that. This is exactly where my confusion lies
I thought what you are referring to is the seat of the corn, and Line B... Hanks red line was the heel point. Notice on the distorted foot on the diagram how much further ahead the "heel point" (red line) is. I really don't quite "get it" While I do know Hanks heel IS still run under a bit just by looking at it, I am not sure how to determine that from the solar view. Are wide collateral grooves bad??? While this pic does make them look quite a bit wider than they are because the depth is being shown. Here is a different pic, for some reason I wasn't getting the whole hoof in my pics yesterday!
Blob is better! this one shows his CG aren't quite as wide as they appear in first pic.
|
Member:
melis2
|
Posted on Sunday, May 9, 2010 - 8:40 am:
Angie,
I've found that Optamax by United Vet is a good mineral supplement. I need a higher copper/zinc formula to balance the high iron content in my hay and pasture (I had them analyzed). I recently tried supplementing with individual copper and zinc from Uckele but my boys didn't like the taste.
After a year or so of using Optamax, I've noticed their hooves have a tighter white line and their manes and tales are even softer and thicker.
|
Moderator:
DrO
|
Posted on Sunday, May 9, 2010 - 10:42 am:
Hello Angie,
1. What is the purpose of cutting out the soleus? (frog cleft)
I am uncertain what you mean. Do you mean to shape healthy horn into some ideal or to cut our unhealthy tissue? I don't believe in the first and the second should be self evident.
2. What does it mean if the there is no "gap" there; the frog is one big flat fleshy thickness? (protection?)
I have seen horses with healthy feet and this conformation so don't see a significance.
3. If I cut away a thrushy frog, at what point would I need padding to keep the frog in contact with the ground so that is functions as the pump mechanism it is meant to be?
In the short run, the time to grow out a thrushy frog, I do not think the frog needs padding for this function. Padding will create a moist bacteria laden environment and just make the thrush worse.
4. Guidelines for cutting away thrushy frog?
See HorseAdvice.com » Diseases of Horses » Lameness » Diseases of the Hoof » Thrush.
5. How long should it take for a new healthy frog to grow back in?
It will depend on how deep you have cut and whether the change is chronic or acute. In general though the frog and sole turn themselves over roughly every few months.
6. Cracks in the sole; should the sole be carved out until the cracks disappear? (false sole?)
In some soles removing all the cracks will create a thin sole but leaving in those that are infected with thrush will result in abscesses forming once the thrush reaches the sensitive tissue. For our guidelines see HorseAdvice.com » Diseases of Horses » Lameness » Diseases of the Hoof » Thrush.
7. Craters in the sole; also need to be carved out? (Yes, picture the surface of the moon, I've seen that on one of my horses hoofs, basically gone now)
No, craters generally do not trap moisture and so will grow out if the foot is kept clean and dry.
8. What would cause the craters if the horse is always on pasture, not rocky soil?
Diet?
Wetness leads to soft horn which may exfoliate in areas.
9. White Line "Disease" ("Disease" is questionable to some I guess) How can digging that out be good if you are also keeping the stretched white line/flare open?
Assuming we are talking about onychomycosis we do not recommend digging it out in the manner I think you are suggesting, for more on this see HorseAdvice.com » Diseases of Horses » Lameness » Diseases of the Hoof » White Line Disease or Onychomycosis.
10. If beveling isn't tightening flares, what else do I look at?
I am uncertain if you mean beveling the flare in the wall but if you are there are several possibilities: overly long hooves, imbalance resulting in too much weight bearing on the flaring wall, irreversible stretching in the white line.
11. Bars; what does it mean if the bars are almost non-existant? How can I get more bars to grow in?
It means they are wearing down as quick as they are growing. Check the foot balance and environment.
12. I hate to even bring this up, need a degree in nutrition, yet I am wondering if anyone has a good vitamin or micro mineral supplement that they found makes a difference in growing a great hoof? I don't mean hoof supplements in general, more naturalist thinking.
Hoof supplements are composed of vitamins and micrornutrients for more on nutrition and hoof health see Horse Care » Hoof Care, Hoof Trimming, Shoeing Horses » Care of the Hoof: an Overview.
DrO
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Sunday, May 9, 2010 - 11:09 am:
Thank you DrO! You've eased my mind in a few areas.
1. I thought it was you who said about cutting out the soleous/cleft. I guess it was CLEAN not cut, and I misunderstood. No, not shape into any ideal shape or form.
2. Good! Got that on some hoofs!
3. My thoughts exactly, but I wasn't sure if the frog grew quick enough to keep the frog working as the pump it is meant to be. I see pads for supporting that, and glad to hear I can keep my cash for now.
4., 5., Good to know the time line for growing out frog and soul. Watched hoofs don't seem to grow or change, ;-).
6.,7, 8. Got it. Except I can't remember if my mare had the craters during a wet spell. It's been so dry here forever it seems. But it may have been late winter, and some slush.
9. O.k., backing off on the digging! I was under the impression I needed to dig out any black I saw, and it wasn't making sense to me. I kept thinking how will this tighten up (WL) if I dig out what looks dark and then treat it? Every day will show some dark places, just from dirt.
10. Uh uh, I don't like the word "irreversible" in the cases I have, not overly long, not weight bearing, but definitely flares. At quarters. Toes are tighter.
11. Hmm...bars...why just one horse then? Have to ponder that one a bit. Pictures.
12. I understand the hoof supplements. I had run across a specific (spendy) product that sounded good.
https://laminitis911.com/powerhorse_traceminerals.html
My opinion is sometimes small amounts of trace minerals are more helpful, and safer, then vitamins & mineral supplements because I worry about over supplementing in one area.
I do give a vit/min supplement already, and don't think it's made a difference in 6 months.
Thank you for the great answers!
Ang
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Sunday, May 9, 2010 - 11:19 pm:
Heel points... HMMMMM think this explains it well?? I really need to figure this out
https://www.thehorseshoof.com/HC_Heels.html
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:08 am:
Diane,
That is an AMAZING article! And from the Welzs, even better!
I do wish they would have included a side view showing what is weight bearing. You do NOT want the lower arrows, "heel turn around point" being the main weight bearing area and the rest of the "platform" tapering up from the ground.
I am going to add some of the pics from the article, I am sure James & Yvonne would approve!
The first picture they show the top arrow as is the REAR most weightbearing area, and the bottom arrow is the heal turn around point. They say it's NOT underrun heels.
The 2nd picture shows what they call the heel platform.
Look at how much is weight bearing, a very solid and large surface.
 
This really helps me Diane as Gem has hoofs similar to that, and from the side view, I can't imagine changing her hoofs more, they fit her pastern, and shoulder angles I think.
Another thing; if that heel turn around point is higher than the back of the rear most weight bearing surface, that would keep pushing out flares at the quarters, ya?
Confusing is how everyone uses different terms of course.
Side Note Here: Some of you must be wondering if I ever really have horses any more; I keep saying I am going to get some pictures of hoofs on here and don't.
Yesterday I had the camera on the door knob, and had a plan! Saw my son's cooler sitting full of what he had emptied out of his freezer from his college apartment, and decided I'd better unload it before it thawed out. I had earlier moved it from the garage to the basement, now lifted it off the basement floor to a small end table by the freezer.
Ended up hurting my lower back!!
I'll pop some more little pain pills,  And see if I can get at least some pics later today. Got wind/rain/snow coming again for Tues & Wed. *SIGH*
Thanks again for the link Diane, I don't remember ever seeing that article.
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:20 am:
More from the article: the first one how many of our hoofs look, and 2 of James' trims:   
He points out that the heel platform is also beveled from the water line.
AND: This cannot be created in one trim! And you must have upright, functional bars.
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 7:25 am:
Angie it does make sense, I have seen horses with hooves like that and I THOUGHT that meant their heels were underrun. BUT like you say you look at the lateral and they look fine where they are weight bearing... this does clear up a bit of my confusion! It kind of helps with Aileens horse too, when looking at his solar his heel looks ok, lateral tells a way different story. The article explains that too. I'll get it figured out someday
|
Member:
lilo
|
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 10:04 am:
Diane and Angie - great link, Diane, and putting the photos in here helps clarify, Angie. I am wondering why I am so fascinated with all these hoof photos, considering that I don't have problems with my horse's feet.
My daughter was going to help me get some photos of Moonlight's and Jose's hooves yesterday, but, it was Mother's day and the whole family was here and we did not get around to it. My camera, while digital, is not very light weight, therefore I am having problems getting good photos. If I ever post mine, you folks can have fun marking them up - but as long as my horses are sound, I won't change a thing.
Lilo
P.S. By the way, my trimmer hardly ever touches the bars on my horses. The only way she would consider trimming them, is if they "lay over". However, the other natural hoof care trimmer, who actually teaches classes at her old school, talks a lot about trimming the bars.
|
Member:
stek
|
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 11:48 am:
Hmmm, that heel platform article is interesting. Any other resources that you know of that discuss the same thing or have more pics?
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Monday, May 10, 2010 - 3:18 pm:
I sent this link to my hoof helper. I am pretty sure she's met Jim and Yvonne; and wanted to see if she had any precautions since I was excited to read the article.
Some of her feedback included:
They live in very dry country, Arizona, now Texas. The first hoof is healthy to begin with. No heel contraction in the mustang example first shown. Nice wide frog, concavity. Less frogs in the other pictures, she says contracted heels.
So be careful when considering your own hoofs, many factors to consider. If you just try to create that heel platform, a very sore horse could be what you get. Can't just put a horse on their heel bulbs like the mustang hoof shows.
Bars are longer on the healthy mustang hoof, longer towards toe, not longer above sole plain.
Interesting, huh?? Leads to more questions, don't it?
FYI, here's a link to Certified Strasser Trimmers. Joni Libert, Alaska, is my hoof helper who I refer to.
https://www.strasserhoofcare.org/shps.php?page=3
Just thought I'd put that in my discussion so when someone reads something I say I've ran by my hoof helper, my hoof helper is very qualified! And VERY adamant about being cautious, and taking all things into consideration!
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 12:51 am:
Diane, I thought I mentioned this but guess I didn't. When you're trying to find the widest part of the foot, one method is to find the sole wall junction (probably take a hoof knife or hoof pick to find where the live sole meets the wall. This junction on each side will form an arc, even if the hoof wall is distorted. The widest part of that arc should be the widest part of the foot. If you measure from wall to wall, a distorted foot or a long wall will give you an inaccurate measure. See your lines above. They go wall to wall instead of junction to junction.
|
Member:
scooter
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 7:02 am:
Julie that makes sense, I know it isn't wall to wall that is what I used to think (the literal) widest part. My line above is where I have read that the widest part is approx 1 in from appex of frog OR about where the bars start coming out, an easy way to determine it just eyeballing.
In anything I have read that is where they say the widest part of the hoof is or very close. So you would put Hanks line, the widest part at about the tip of his frog???
|
Member:
ajudson1
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 9:37 am:
Back to the heel point part of this:
Something I had trouble with, and saw on others' pictures, was failure to level the "heel turn around point." That kept being higher when looking from heel to toe. Usually for me, on the bar (inside) of the turn around point. So I THINK when I was told to move the heel point back, it was because of that part being higher.
"Scooping" that back with a flat knife or rasp means taking the part down level. It does NOT always mean lowering the heels, or getting the horse walking on his bulbs as the first mustang pictures seems to show.
Here's a picture from over 3 years ago. My first ever hoof pics so not the best, but before I started trimming.
What I see is there seems to be a heel platform, and the it seems to taper up to the heel. It's as if the farrier used the bars as his guide where to level for the heel platform, and I have no idea if that is good or not.
What I do know is the hoof don't look like that now...uh uh!
|
Member:
juliem
|
Posted on Tuesday, May 11, 2010 - 10:11 am:
Diane, I think all three methods for finding the widest part should give you roughly the same area and if they don't, you have a distorted foot. If you are really mapping before you trim, you use all three. I actually think Hank's widest part is a little further back than your blue line on the left side of the photo and about where your line is on the right. If you look at the wall sole junction (we'll assume that's live sole even though it isn't) the widest part of the arc is about a quarter inch behind (toward the heel) of your blue line. Don't know why you thought I mean tip of frog?? I really hope you to get the DVD I mentioned. It shows this not only on several hooves as he trims, but in drawings. Same with heels.
|
|
|
