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Member:
Fototrop

Posted on Sunday, Apr 9, 2006 - 9:05 am:

A good friend of mine who raises Canadians nearly lost a 2 year old stallion Friday night when he got tangled in the new electric "rope" fencing. I don't know the brand of her fence, but it is that really expensive stuff. A year ago, she lost a weanling that hung himself in the fence. Friday night a 2 year old stud got in the fence. She found him Saturday morning, still tightly entangled in the fence. They think he fought the fence for over 5 hours. He was being shocked the entire time. She called the vet to come and put him down, but the vet didn't put him down. He's on a lot of meds. One eye was packed with mud and dirt; he has multiple deep rope burns; and, severe muscle strains everywhere. It took 30 minutes for the muscles to relax enough so he could get up. They do not know if he is going to be all right or not. He was soaking wet from sweat with icicles frozen all over him. He may have injuries that haven't shown up yet and he is in danger of foundering from the stress.

When the weanling died, she thought/hoped it was one of those fluke accidents. Yesterday she spent the rest of her day tearing down all her fencing and putting up good old fashioned electric wire that will break. It really doesn't make sense to make fencing that will entangle a horse, but not break. We don't put them out with nylon halters for the same reasons, they can hang themselves in them. I can't believe that my friend is the only person who has had problems with these fences. Anybody else heard anything about them?

Pam
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Sunday, Apr 9, 2006 - 9:54 am:

Can you be more specific as to what kind of fencing you are talking about? Rope as in what brand? I have Horse Guard which is woven nylon with electric strands run through it, pretty tough stuff. Not a rope, but rather it is 1 1/2" wide.

And btw, there are different thicknesses of electric "wire" also, so not all of that will break easily either.

That is a sad story, and I feel for what your friend is going through, how awful. It may be that the horses are not seeing the fence, horses do not see what we do and that may explain why her horses are getting so tangled in it. Otherwise the electric shocks should be enough to keep them away from it.

Keep us posted and send your friend hugs from all of us here.
Member:
Cheryl

Posted on Sunday, Apr 9, 2006 - 10:01 am:

WOOOO - We are in the process of buying property and I fully intended to put up the heavy electric rope. What a wake up. Would it be possible for you to let us know how the fence is constructed - one wire - two - three - Was it flagged? Any more information you can provide would be really appreciated. Hope the little guy pulls through OK.
Thanks, Cheryl
Member:
Dres

Posted on Sunday, Apr 9, 2006 - 10:46 am:

I have had young horses try to go thru.. well actually go thru my electric ribbon fencing.. what i have found is it stretches OR comes undone at the fence post.. I LOVE my fence.. when and if there is a run in with it.. the horse has always fared well, no scraps or sores, and the fence just had to be tighten or put back on the post...

On the first day God created horses, on the second day he painted them with spots..
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Sunday, Apr 9, 2006 - 11:54 am:

YIKES! I have been thinking about fencing for the past couple of days, and just filed away the samples and DVD of the Electro-Braid fencing and of the Horse Guard. We had thought to go with the Electro-Braid because of it's ease of being seen by the horses and because it doesn't sag like the Horse Guard can. I used the HG fence and regular aluminum wire in VT. No complaints, really, but when I saw the Electro-Braid and how clean and tight it stays, . . . I was impressed.
I, too, am very interested to know if the fencing was the recommended 4-5 strand fence or if your friend used just one or two strands (which is really all that is needed, in my opinion).

I am so very sorry to hear of the horses being hurt there. She has had two incidences? I wonder if something is chasing and panicking her horses? From the ads, the horses are supposed to "bounce off" the electric rope. I wonder if the number of strands has anything to do with the horse getting caught. Please post again for those of us who are considering using this type of fence. Aluminum wire isn't beautiful, but I'll much rather use it than something that will hurt my horses.
Member:
Tuckern

Posted on Sunday, Apr 9, 2006 - 3:32 pm:

Hi Pam,

I would advise your friend that the wire electric fencing doesn't break easily either, and could potentially cause more damage, because it is so much thinner, and can get embedded in their skin easier.

The only electric material I've found that will break if enough force is applied to it, is the electric tape. It's about an 1.5" wide.

Just my two cents.

Nicole
Moderator:
DrO

Posted on Monday, Apr 10, 2006 - 7:10 am:

I wonder what it is about Pam's friends set up that has resulted in 2 accidents in a short period of time. Pam could you give us more details? For instance:
  • How many wires were in the fence, how far apart were they?
  • Has she been diligent about keeping it tight and electrified?
  • How long had this horse been in this pasture?
  • How big was this pasture?
  • Were their other horses in this pasture?
  • Were their horses in adjacent pastures?
This type fencing might not be the best choice for a young feisty stallion that is tempted to leave but because I have had to put more horses down for getting hit by cars than fence injuries I am uncertain about the moral of this story. We had a member who just recently had a horse escape that resulted in a traffic accident where someone was killed. Something to think about before we condemn stout fencing.

We use a mixture of board fencing and high tensile, and the high tensile will not break and we have not had problems. Horses new to the property or that seem less than sensible go into high boarded fences first. For more on the pros and cons of different fencing along with recommendations for specific situations see the article associated with this discussion.
DrO
Member:
Trouble

Posted on Monday, Apr 10, 2006 - 10:56 am:

The electric tape that the others mention is great as it stretches alot. I use only one strand on fiberglass posts to make a dry lot for my pony. He has escaped before when the fence charger was off, and the fence was merely stretched out, blowing in the wind! It's very economical and multiple strands make a very nice looking fence. The coated wire fencing also stretches significantly and is easy to maintain.

But....if I had stallions or young horses on my property, I would not consider using using rope or wire of any kind other than a strand at the top. I would definitely put up a more substantial type of fencing.

How sad and frustrating to have had these losses. So sorry.
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Friday, Apr 14, 2006 - 2:38 pm:

Anything more you can tell us on this, Pamela?
Thanks.
Member:
Fototrop

Posted on Friday, Apr 14, 2006 - 8:30 pm:

Hi,
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back. My friend is out of state right now, so I can't tell you the brand. I can describe it. It is white, about as thick as your finger, with wires running through it. Her mother told me that the company's advertising says you can drive a car into it and it won't break. She had posts about every 12 feet, 2 strands with tensioners, electrified. They think the colt laid there getting shocked for about 5 hours. He had the fence wrapped all around him from fighting it. He has pretty severe rope burns, about an inch deep around two fetlocks. He's going to make it, but it's going to be a long haul until he's better. He probably strained or sprained many muscles all over his body. The eye is the thing they are the most worried about as it was badly scratched by the dirt. Dirt was actually packed all around the sides of the eye and on top of the eye. He's on meds for that.
And yes they think something spooked him. Could be coyotes or dogs or who knows what. I don't think there is a fence that a horse can't find a way to get hurt in, but I certainly don't want anything that will absolutely will not break that a horse could get tangled in.
Pam
Moderator:
DrO

Posted on Saturday, Apr 15, 2006 - 8:17 am:

Perhaps Pamela, he may have spooked but a 2 wire fence is visually not much to stop a 2 year old stallion. I think equally likely is that he was trying to find a way through when he became entangled. Whatever fence you put up to control young horses, stallions, or those unfamiliar with the boundaries needs to be more visually imposing.

I emphasize again: I have seen more horses that died because they got out of the fence than because of the damage done by the fence itself.
DrO
Member:
Zarr

Posted on Friday, Apr 28, 2006 - 12:08 pm:

What a terrible experience for that horse! We have had electro-braid for 7 years and love it!We have two arabs 1 foxtrotter (who will challenge any puzzle) and a mustang.We walked horses around so they knew fence lines, four strands, and not even the mustang has tried to leave.It is solar powered and packs enough zap that even when off none tried to leave?!! Hope the poor stallion can recover. Cindy
Member:
Warwick

Posted on Friday, Apr 28, 2006 - 1:36 pm:

I don't know why I didn't read this thread before today but here's my two cents worth. When I was out of the country living in Australia for two years, a close friend very kindly looked after my horses at her farm. Her fencing was new at the time and comprised of four strands of thin white vinyl wire. I believe the brand name is Bayco. There was also a single strand of hot wire on top. My then yearling colt must have either been face-fighting with his neighbor and/or pawing at the fence. Anyway, he managed to tangle himself and the more he fought, the more entangled he became. When my friend found him, he was on the ground and completely spent from struggling. After being cut free he was unable to stand without assistance and had great trouble staying on his feet. The fence did not break throughout this whole ordeal.

The vet was called and although initially it appeared that the cuts and scrapes were minor, it was later found that there was severe burning to the neck and one pastern due to "rope" type burns. These types of burns can be missed during the initial inspection as the skin does not always break or show signs of trauma. However they can be terribly severe - as they were in my colt's case. Long story short, at one point the vet thought he would lose his foot and his neck burn was over 1.5" deep, 2" wide and 10" long.

It took over a year of intensive care to heal the injuries to say nothing of the cost (Vetrap alone reached close to $1,000). Today although he has a large scar encircling his pastern, no major internal structures were damaged and he is completely sound on that leg. His neck has a ridge of scar tissue running across it but luckily the affected muscles and tissue healed with no residual damage and consistent massage also worked wonders. However things could just have easily gone in the other direction.

My poor friend ripped out all the vinyl fencing and replaced it with wood topped off with a strand of regular hot wire. That's the only type of fencing we both feel comfortable with now. However we might be fooling ourselves as you still hear of horses coming to grief with wood fences. Where there is a will there is a way as far as them getting into trouble is concerned. The only thing certain it seems is that they WILL get into trouble regardless of how much we try to ensure they won't.
Moderator:
DrO

Posted on Saturday, Apr 29, 2006 - 8:42 am:

I am sorry to hear about your friend's horse Sue. The moral of this story is that all the strands of this type fencing should be hot. I have seen some horses that learn to lean through the lower strands, particularly if there is something desirable on the other side. Again, safe fencing is more than the type fence you build but also management for your particular situation and maintenance.
DrO
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Saturday, Apr 29, 2006 - 9:24 am:

I don't know if there is such a thing as an accident proof fence, some horses can find a way to get hurt no matter what precautions are taken, kinda like some people are more accident prone.

No matter what kind of fence I have,(wood, wire, and the Horse Guard is what I have/had) I always walk the horses around it while tapping it with a short whip or stick when introducing them to a new pasture. I never assume that they see it, or realise what it is for: to keep them contained!

And any electric wire or rope should have streamers on some sort on it: this can be the stretchy orange tape, or bedsheets torn up in strips. Tie them on and place them every couple of feet between posts so they flutter in the wind for the horses to notice. I still have one pasture with only one strand of wire and it still has "flutterings" on it.
Member:
Warwick

Posted on Monday, May 1, 2006 - 12:50 pm:

You are absolutely right about fence management, Dr O. On the other hand I sometimes think that horses were put on this planet just to test our stress levels, drive us crazy and put us in the poor house.

At least that's my husband's theory.
Member:
Quatro

Posted on Monday, May 1, 2006 - 3:08 pm:

I second that opinion Sue! Stress level is elevated, getting ready to pull out the wallet again! But I do love that silly boy of mine!
suz
Member:
Qh4me

Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 3:38 pm:

I heard this weekend that one of our neighbours lost their yearling in a fence. He got tangled in the electric braid of some sort and hung himself.

Again, I don't believe that all strands were hot, but a very unfortunate circumstance.

Last week we did 2 new pastures with what else....equi-braid. Now I have 4 strands and all are hot. I have never had any issues with this, and love how easy the product is to put up. I have posts 10 feet apart and 4 strands, but with all the stories, I will be sure to keep a close eye on things
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 3:56 pm:

Seems like the horses that have the most problem with the fence in the above posts are either studs or youngsters.
Shawna, can you discover if all the strands of the rope fence were hot for the yearling?

Whenever I have used electric wire, I have tied surveyors tape on it, as Angie mentions above, and I ALWAYS walk the fence with any newbies who come into the herd. In all the years of using wire, I only had horses break through twice, and both times were on nights that were -50F after several days of cold . . . and I think the horses were frantic with trying to warm up.

For those of you who use Horse Guard or other wide mylon tape, do you have problems with sagging or wind? Also, to any of you who are in the western plains, do you have trouble with sun damage to the nylon tape? I am still leaning toward ElectroBraid, but this discussion has made me more wary than I was originally.
Member:
Terrilyn

Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 5:03 pm:

Hi Holly!!
We use the 1.5 inch tape, brown, by Ramm Fence. I've had it up now for 2.5 years and overall I'm very pleased with its performance.

Pros: Looks good, low maintenance, made well and holds up well, horses respect it, high visibility, very easy to install, reasonable cost (I put up 3 strands, but next time would use 4).

Cons: Sags occasionally BUT is not hard to tighten up by hand...you don't need any tools do do it. If you don't space posts too far apart, it won't sag as much. Can't think of too many other cons--I think it was a good choice.

Our trainer uses Electrobraid and it looks GREAT. However that too has a tendency to sag, and requires (I think) a tool to tighten up. Corners MUST be braced properly for it to work well. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably go with the Electrobraid. Costs a bit more, and more involved installation.

Interesting sidebar on the tape. I kept a friend's TWH briefly, and I put him in the pasture with the electric tape. If I hadn't seen him do this I wouldn't have believed it...he fell to the ground and kicked out the bottom strand, then rolled out under the middle strand to the other side of the fence--he was that desperate to reach the other horses. The tape pulled right out...which I guess is a good thing, really. Because of the way it attaches to the fence posts, enough tension will pull it loose. That is the one thing that always makes me a little nervous....your horses must have a healthy respect for electricity. Still, I've never had another problem and consider that incident a freak occurrence (he was an extremely bright, inventive creature!).
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Tuesday, May 2, 2006 - 5:26 pm:

Thanks for sharing, Terri . . .
That was one smart and determined TWH, huh?
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Wednesday, May 3, 2006 - 8:57 am:

Holly,

Surveyors tape, ah, so that's what that stuff is called.

Ours does sag in the spring but that is only because the posts start leaning in when the ground is soft. If you cement the corners, or brace them, it won't be a problem. I am very happy with ours and that is a minor problem. Every spring I walk all the fences to check for damage and the Horse Guard had been the most trouble free of any I've used. Oh, and the deer do make some sagging spots, only where the fence seems to be in the middle of their trail!

Terri,
I knew a pretty little shetland/arab cross pony that was like your friends TWH. She would DrOp to her knees and somehow roll under the fence too. She also knew if the electric fence was off, then she would just step through the strands easy as can be!
Member:
36541

Posted on Wednesday, May 3, 2006 - 9:47 am:

I have a very determined young Connemara who has been putting my Horse Guard to the test of late. I have used the product for ten years on two different farms and can't say enough good about it. I space my capped T-posts 16 feet, and attach the insulators to them with the heaviest cable ties you can buy in bulk. I didn't have a problem with sagging until this pony started going through the two strands if the fence is off. I generally turn my solar charger off if it is supposed to rain, as we have a lot of lightning. She has been seen to sniff the fence, put a foot on the lower strand to pull it down, and go back and forth at her leisure. Of course she will also jump the entire thing, so it may be a lost cause entirely!
Member:
Qh4me

Posted on Wednesday, May 3, 2006 - 1:40 pm:

Holly,

I haven't went over to the neighbours to find out exactly what happened, but I was talking with the guy at the feed store about it and he said that he only had 2 strands, and only the top one being hot. Very unfortunate for him.

I still can't understand how he got strangled. Would the fencing not have to be fairly loose to get wrapped around his neck. Our fencing doesn't sag and is tight and I can't see how a horse could get it wrapped around itself. I could see a leg but to get strangled??
Member:
Erinport

Posted on Wednesday, May 3, 2006 - 3:21 pm:

well, okay, I'll throw my opinion in, too. I have (gasp!) barbed wire, four-strand fencing that was in place when we bought the farm (pardon the pun). We didn't have the money to replace the fence in its entirety, but really didn't feel good about horses being in barbed wire. So what we did is add two strands of electric tape, 1.5" wide, white, to the entire fence system. We have a solar charger. The fence is on steel T-posts (another risk), so we used protective t-post cap insulators for the top strand of tape, and four-inch extender insulators for the second strand of tape, which is set about 18 inches below the first strand. The extenders mean that if they try to lean over the top strand for some reason, they get it in the chest! We had a MFT filly who would paw at the bottom strand of wire, who would graze through the fence, who would lean on the fence, etc. She was missing a section of mane about eight inches long (like a bridle path in the middle of her mane) from pulling her head through the barbed wire. Once we put that tape up, she lit her eyes up a couple of times, and has never gone near it since. She now has six inches of really pretty, thick mane in that bald spot! None of the six horses we've had in the pasture have ever disrespected the fence, not even a studdy gelding who REALLY wanted to get in with the girls in the next pasture. It was pretty economical, and super easy to install. One hint I got from one of the fencing companies is to twist the tape once or twice between posts (depending on your spacing). This totally prevents the tape from blowing in the wind and stretching or breaking insulators. The wind just blows right around the tape and doesn't even move it. It really doesn't look bad twisted if everything is done uniformly. And the white tape is highly visible to both people and horses, even at night, even when twisted. We had to work with the situation we had, for financial reasons, but we're very happy with the results. Even babies leave this stuff alone when it's hot. We have both strands hot, by the way. Believe me, they know the difference! My suggestion, however, if you have babies, is to have at least one hot strand close to the ground, so they stay away from the bottom of the fence, too. Little ones can lie down and roll into a fence. A little shock here and there will teach them not to do that early on. Yes, if I had my druthers, I'd have an all wood fence with some eletrical tape added for extra security. But we had to work with what we had. Don't think that I don't realize that I could find a horse tangled in there someday. I know I could. But I feel like I've done what I can at this point to protect them. They're a bit less likely to get into the barbed wire if they're not comfortable getting too near it to begin with.
Member:
Imogen

Posted on Saturday, May 6, 2006 - 3:47 am:

I hate that electric rope stuff. We sometimes meet it out hunting. I will jump white tape but not that stuff it does not break when it should if something goes wrong. I would rather replace broken tape/catch horses than use it.

Gallagher's (the New Zealand company that supplies most of Europe and Australasia) sells it unfortunately but they also do standard polytape and jumbo tape (the wide stuff mentioned earlier in the thread).

All the best...

Imogen
Member:
Corinne

Posted on Sunday, May 7, 2006 - 11:45 pm:

Hope no one minds I post this on this fencing alert post but I have to tell you of the experience we had this weekend that involved a fence post.
We were at a clinic a few hours away and a friend of mine had left her horses turned out in a grass paddock at the local fairgrounds with her camper right next to the turnout where they were staying. She slept 10 feet away from the horses. Her 19 year old very ranch savvy mare had a terrible accident sometime in the early morning hours but no one heard any distress. My friend thinks someone had come into the paddock at night because they found the fence open to an adjacent fenced off area. The fence was thin pipe that was soldered to metal poles about 3.5 inches in diameter and were solid. The posts were about three feet high. Her horses had stayed in that same paddock a few times a year for the last five years and had never had any issues with the fence. Presumably the mare was trying to get back to her pasture buddy after having walked to the adjacent area though the gate (or perhaps she was led by someone who had trespassed) at which point she unfortunately either spooked or jumped and impaled herself on the dorsal side of her chest on the cement and metal pole. She ripped a hole about 12 x 12 in her chest and did extensive tissue and muscle damage. Lord knows how long she was hung up but she never called out. We could tell by the flesh and the blood on the post it must have been a short while. The owners were obviously completely shaken when they went out and found her with a gaping hole in her chest standing bleeding profusely in the corner of the field. She was unable to move because of the muscle damage. The nearest vet was an hour away and was called immediately. While he was in route they made her comfortable until he arrived. It was such a horrible site. The poor 19 year old girl who had had this horse her whole life was just a wreck. The mare was shocky and we covered her and comforted until the vet arrived. Her gums were pale, she was tachycardic and tachypnic, and her extremities cool.

When the vet got there he stabilized her with five bags of IV fluids and he was able to excise some muscle, internal suture and sew most of the flap (after inserting drains) but had to leave a large hole to close by secondary intention. She was given pain meds and antibiotics. This reminded me of a combat wound like the ones we were trained to treat in the military. I felt horrible for the mare and was so grateful she didn't stay impaled. I could not even imagine what it would have been like if she hadn’t gotten herself off the post because to find a horse impaled through the chest on a post while still conscious and feeling the tortuous pain would have been too much for everyone. I might have had a heart attack if it were me so my hats off to the family for keeping their heads. They constructed a panel stall around her in the field where she has to stay without moving for three days. Her owners are going to sleep in the grass next to her.

Does any one know how high fence posts need to be to prevent something like this? I noticed most all of the farms while driving home had fence posts about 3.5 feet high. Was this just a fluke or has anyone had a horse in a similar situation impaling themselves on the fence posts?
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 7:49 am:

O wow, how awful. That poor mare and her family. Unfortunately horses do get caught up on fence posts, I have heard stories of them getting impaled on the steel T-posts. Or getting their halters caught and getting hurt from pulling.

I have T-posts that are 5'6" tall, with I think 5' sticking out that has the Horse Guard t-post cover over it. I have some posts that don't have the cover, just the caps. Some nosey horse likes to take them off, so I need to string electric wire through the top of the caps.

I use the plastic step in posts in some spots, these bend so easily that I don't think a horse would get hurt on them. I the think the Horse Guard company sells some fiber glass stakes for temp fencing; I can't imagine using those!
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 11:22 am:

Like Angie, I've heard of several such accidents. In fact, I think it was Equus that had an article a few years ago about a horse that was impaled through his upper back leg, all the way through. If I remember right, the horse spooked while being ridden, rushed backwards, and impaled himself on a fence post. In this case, I think it was a wooden post.

Fence posts aren't the only danger. I saw a horse at the vet's that had run the handle of a manure fork through the inside of his upper rear leg.

The worst cases I've ever seen, though, were horses that got caught in barbed wire fences.
Member:
Warwick

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 12:20 pm:

What a horrid story, Corinne. Several years ago a friend of mine's eventer impaled himself in his field on a metal fence post and had to be euthanized because the damage was so extensive. He had been turned out in the field for years and was completely familiar with the boundaries. However they figure something spooked him and he basically ran blind into the post. He was a fantastically talented horse with a huge future ahead of him.

Then just last year a mare (with a foal on side) up the road from us died when she became impaled on a metal fence post. She was dead before the vet arrived due to massive blood loss and very likely shock. The owners had to handraise the foal.

Very tragic stories.
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 12:55 pm:

Gosh, guys . . . I've heard of all of these types of injuries and worse . . . and I know that if we can imagine an accident happening, then it's probably all ready happened or will happen with a horse . . . so what can we do? Here in parts of the west and on the plains, trees are at a premium and metal posts are standard . . . I can say that I hate metal t-posts with a passion . . . and barbed wire . . . and I refuse to have them on our Kansas horse property. Angie, I have also used those dome-shaped t-post toppers that hold electric tape, and I think they are the way to make t-posts, both fiberglass and metal, as safe as possible for horses. The cost of the yellow toppers is much less than an ensuing vet bill or loss of an animal. Some folks swear by Diamond-V fencing, but I hate the way that I can't mow the weeds from the bottom of the fence.

I have been in many different situations with many different kinds of fences. I think that square wood posts or large, round, wood posts with electric fence tape/rope and topped by a board that runs evenly with the top of the posts and accompanied by an electric wire on the inside sounds safest for mature horses . . . Stallions and youngsters would usually require more specialized fencing. With youngsters, I'm figuring that a pasture/paddock with large diameter wooden posts and several board rails or Diamond-V fencing and in close proximity to the barn/house is best.

I am thankful for this discussion, even though it makes me crazy to think of all the injuries and potential injuries. It is causing me to think VERY thoroughly about what kind of permanent fencing we need to have.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 3:35 pm:

Holly, we use the stuff called "horse fencing" that is the little rectangles without any barbs sticking out. We attach it to cedar posts high enough up so a dog can get under it. We have metal rails like you use for chain link fencing attached top and bottom to the fencing and to the posts. This keeps the fence taut so horses can't bend it out of shape. There is enough room under the fence that you could mow under it. Cedar posts are cheap here, but might be expensive in KS. Maybe you could do a similar thing with metal t-posts somehow. If you could drill a hole in the rails and mount them on the t-post somehow, or mount them with metal clamps, it seems like it would protect the horses from the tops of the t-posts.

We sometimes turn our stallions out in the fields, but keep an empty field between them and the other horses. (Each of our turn-out fields are about 3 acres) Our stallion turn-out per se is fenced in 6'high horse fencing, installed like in the fields, but with extra bracing in the corners so the stallions can't tear it down.
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 3:51 pm:

Thank you, Sara. I am trying to picture what you describe, and I think I can see what you mean, but if you can post a picture that would be excellent.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 4:56 pm:

I'll give it a shot this evening. I just happen to have bought a new digital, so will try it out.
Member:
Juliem

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 9:21 pm:

Sadly, I personally know two people who have lost horses this way. Both impaled themselves on metal T posts. Those are three sided metal posts about one and a half inches wide and ususally left with four feet or more out of the ground. One post was in a line of fence, the other was solitary in a field--why it wasn't removed I don't know. And why the horses ended up impaled on them know one knows. If you use metal T posts, always buy the round plastic caps to tap on the tops. It wouldn't totally prevent an injury, but it might prevent a fatality.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Monday, May 8, 2006 - 11:49 pm:

Here's a picture of the pipe rail on the cedar post.
application/pdffenc post
fence post.pdf (51.7 k)


I have a bigger picture of the fence as a whole but have to figure out a faster way to shrink it. I've just loaded Photoshop Elements 4.0 and don't have it figured out yet. Will try again tomorrow.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Tuesday, May 9, 2006 - 12:00 am:

Here's a view of the fencing, but doesn't show the bottom rail. It's attached the same as the top. We used baling wire to attach the fence to the rail between the posts.
application/pdffencing
fencing.pdf (62.7 k)
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Tuesday, May 9, 2006 - 1:45 am:

Sara, thanks so much for taking those awesome pictures of your fence. I'd say your new camera works very well. The fence looks neat and safe. How did you get the piping, and was it expensive? How long has your fence been up? Any regrets with it or desire to have something different? Thanks, again. The view is gorgeous.
Member:
Cpacer

Posted on Tuesday, May 9, 2006 - 9:05 am:

That is a nice looking fence! I've been looking into what kind of fence to put up too, and am interested in how this compares to a 3-rail with wire. I want something sturdy enough to keep the horses in and sealed enough to keep a dachshund out.

Can you show us what the gates look like? Beautiful land by the way!
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 - 6:40 pm:

Holly & CP, Our fence has been up 12 or 13 years. We had to tighten up the stallion's pen fencing last year as one of the cedar posts used as a cross piece in a corner was chewed on and getting weak.

We used the original cedar posts that were here when we bought the place, took down the old livestock fencing, attached the horse fencing with brads to the cedar posts. We saved all our baling wire and spent our evenings cutting into approx. foot long bits. We used this to attach to fencing to the pipe rail. We originally used pipe only on the top of the fence, but found the horses liked to paw at the fence bottom, and the fencing tended to curl up. The pipe at the bottom prevents the curling and keeps it tight.

Our gates are 8 or 10 foot (depends on field) pipe panel gates made by Powder Mountain (I think.)We have to have wide enough gates for the tractor to get through. The same gates are available in smaller and wider widths.

The gates that came with the place were all those flat aluminium farm gates. I hated them. It was impossible for me to hold them open in a strong wind and hold a horse at the same time. The pipe ones don't catch the wind.

I'll have to check with Lonnie regarding price. Seems to me this was one of the more reasonably priced ways to go when we did it. I'll let you know. To keep a small dog out, you'd have to put the fence at ground level, which you could easily do.

btw - The mountains you see are about half an hour away and have great riding in the summer and fall.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 - 7:02 pm:

Lonnie said the fencing would cost today about $3.50 a linear foot. That includes pipe, fencing and posts. He got the pipe at a local fencing supply. You could use drill pipe (used) I would think, which would probably cost less in some areas. Those are Utah prices; I don't know how that would compare to other parts of the country.

I will post a couple of gate pictures later. I've got to shrink them first.
Member:
Cpacer

Posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 9:04 am:

Very cool! How long are those pipes? Do the ends all meet on top of the posts? I was looking into the Red Brand no-climb fencing. Do you think it makes a difference by brand or could you use the non-welded, similar looking type of stuff you can get at Lowes?

Still jealous about those mountains. Certainly the thing I miss most about the west along with the desert.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Thursday, May 11, 2006 - 3:41 pm:

The pipes can come in different lengths. Ours are about 25' I think. Lonnie cut some of them to fit in particular areas, like between a post and a corner. The pipes meet "where ever." He "tunneled" the ends together. He is a retired electrical contractor and I think he used one of his conduit tool to expand the pipe ends. You could have them meet on the posts, though, or I'd guess weld them together,though you'd want to make sure your welds were strong. I've got some pictures of where the pipes end and the gates that I'll try and post later. We used the Red Brand (has a red wire at the bottom of the roll of wire) because we like the way it was finished. I haven't looked at the fence Lowes' has. Some fencing I've seen has little barbs, almost like barbed wire, where the wires are tied together. I'd be afraid the horses' would cut themselves on it.

I know. I love the mountains! I always feel "at home" when I can see them.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Tuesday, May 16, 2006 - 6:27 pm:

Ooops! I went running off to a show last weekend and totally forgot about the pictures. I'll shrink and post them after dinner.
New Member:
Leslie1

Posted on Wednesday, Oct 4, 2006 - 9:13 pm:

hi peeps
is electric fencing (one strand of thin wire )safer closer to the ground (knee high) or up higher towards top of fence? my filly has a bad habit of pawing so I thought if I electrified her fencing it might keep her from getting near it.
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Thursday, Oct 5, 2006 - 12:25 pm:

Hi Leslie,

I'd put the wire chest height only. And set it like 4 - 6" from the other fence. You'll have to either buy extension insulators, or use some type of step in posts to run the new strand. I'd go with the insulators, easier, cheaper,and quicker to set up.

After she touches that a few times, she should keep her distance.

If you put it knee high, she might get caught in that fence also.
Member:
Juliem

Posted on Thursday, Oct 5, 2006 - 10:47 pm:

Put the wire at nose height. You want the first contact to be the very front of the horse or they may rush forward instead of back when they touch the wire. Any wire at knee height would be asking for trouble with a youngster. When I have to use an electric wire, I always build in a safety splice. I have heard too many horror stories of horses who tangle with a hot wire, and end up struggling while the shocks continue. The result is not pretty and sometimes fatal. Read some of the stories on this site. To make a "safety splice", simply put a loop in one end of the wire between two posts and then put another wire through that loop, but only tight enough to maintain contact. Any horse that does get caught will jerk the wires apart and at least have a chance of not getting tangled. An electric fence is not meant to be strong enough to hold a horse physically--it's a fright barrier. If your fence must be tensioned for corners. etc., put a splice on each side and at sensible intervals. Of course, never electrify barbed wire. I hope that goes without saying, but I have seen it done and it used to be a pretty common practice in the West. Julie
Member:
Mwebster

Posted on Friday, Oct 6, 2006 - 8:26 pm:

Julie's suggestion re a safety splice makes a lot of sense.

I haven't strung wire or rope, so am not sure how that does/doesn't come down when a horse runs through it, but I'd sure want the fence to give if a horse really panicked and ran through it, rather than entangle them or cut them.

With tape (like the HorseGuard we use), it's only hand-tightened, you don't need reinforced corners, and the way you tie it off is essentially by looping the tape through a metal fastener and back to itself, and then putting on a little plastic clip that comes apart easily. I'd be surprised to hear there'd ever been a case of a horse caught in HorseGuard and injured, but if there has been a case please let me know, I am always on the lookout for threats to avoid. Among the reasons we chose the tape instead of the rope were: 1) easier for horses to see the tape vs the rope (more like a branch than a twig in diameter); 2) the tape is flat, so doesn't bind or cut, and 3) less likely to circle around and ensnare a limb in case of a problem, since it's sort of stiff and only coils in one direction.

Melissa
Member:
Sully

Posted on Saturday, Oct 7, 2006 - 12:20 am:

I use horseguard fencing too and have had a horse kick at another through the fence hard enough to tear down a single strand along with a lot of the insulators. Never did find any cuts on him. I know that fence guard also sells its own power supply that if a horse should get caught in the fence it will quit sending a pulse through the wire after the 3rd shock. Makes me believe even with horseguard, they can get caught up in it. Right now I have 2 pastures up using their fiber glass stakes, so if you know something I don't Angie, please let me know!! As far as sagging, with a permanent setup, once a year at the very most you might need to tighten up a run of it, but the whole fence seems to stay tight for the most part. This is using horse guard fencing with wood posts that are cemented.
Sully
Member:
Paul303

Posted on Saturday, Oct 7, 2006 - 3:27 am:

Yess....what Sully said. I've done fine with Horseguard.
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Saturday, Oct 7, 2006 - 5:47 pm:

I just think the horse could get stabbed on the fiber glass stakes: Are they solid, or do they bend like the plastic step in posts I use? Just look dangerous to my eyes. Like the old metal step ins we used to use before they started coming out with the plastic covered curled top to run electric wire through.

Question: Do any of you use the "warning" signs that come with the Horse Guard fencing? If so, how do you attach them? I like to fence in our woods trail, and tried to attach them on the strand of fencing on at the entrance to our woods. Are they meant to be on the webbing, or on the posts?
Member:
Sully

Posted on Sunday, Oct 8, 2006 - 4:39 am:

They are not totally solid, if that makes any sense lol....I think they would break, but I also have the insulators right at the very top. This is being used to fence in horses that have been in Fence Guard fencing for 5 yrs now. I need to get the permanent fence up, but want to make sure that I know where I want it first!!
I have never really figured out how to get them "warning" signs on the fence either. I know in the past, I have hung them, but cannot remember how I did it.

Take Care,
Sully
Member:
Ajudson1

Posted on Sunday, Oct 8, 2006 - 9:29 am:

Funny, they sell those warning signs but don't give us a clue how to put them on! I did use one of the plastic straps to put it where I wanted it on the fencing itself, but it is curved around the tape and don't stay put.

I see on the back cover they show it nailed perhaps to a wood post. Seems like they don't know how to attach them signs either!!!
Member:
Sully

Posted on Sunday, Oct 8, 2006 - 11:15 am:

lol Angie
Member:
Leslie1

Posted on Monday, Oct 9, 2006 - 3:33 pm:

Thanks for all the info :-) I will put it nose high and 5 inches out.
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