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Discussion on Hay storage | |
Author | Message |
Member: Cpacer |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 12:34 pm: I’m looking for information about hay storage--found the section about hay, but not too much about storage (did I miss it?).When thinking about ideal hay storage is it better to have ventilation or enclosure? I’ve gathered that having a separate hay barn is better than keeping in the horse barn, now I’m wondering what kind of structure would be best. How many cubic feet would be needed to store 100 or so bales? I think the hay article said hay is okay stored for 9-months, but where do you begin in knowing how much to keep or get and how often? And final question (for now), is there any need to worry about cycling in the same type of hay from different crops if one were to keep a limited amount on hand? Guess this would help me decide above. I’m planning for 3 horses. |
Member: Stenella |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 2:14 pm: A 12 x 14 area, about 8 feet high, can hold around 6 tons; depending on your bale sizes (mine are 100 lbs), of course, and type of hay. Running out mid winter, when the only stuff available is the less desirable "end of year" junk, is a drag. I buy my supply during August/September, 2nd or 3rd cutting. The first cuttings of the year usually have weeds, dirt, and less mutrition, as a rule. What you find, toward the end of the growing season is the better, cleaner hay.For three horses, I'd think you'd want, to be safe, 24 x 16, if you can. Using a regular metal roof is a problem as the condensation drips onto the hay. A tarp helps with that. Some people store their hay on top of flats, the problem with that is that rats and mice love to move in and nest uderneath. Placing a tarp between your hay bales and the ground/flooring also helps to protect the bottom of the bales from any mold/moisture coming up through the floor. |
Member: Jgordo03 |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 3:07 pm: CP,Ventilation is very important, especially if you are going to purchase newly baled hay out of the field. The hay may still be a little moist, especially if the farmer is trying to beat the weather to keep the hay from getting rained on. Those bales get very hot and combust if you don't have it ventilated. It’s not so important if you are going to purchase it from someone who has already stored it for awhile in their barn. I disagree with Stenella (again if you are purchasing newly baled hay) about putting a tarp down; it can trap moisture and mold your bottom row of your very expensive good quality hay. I have a wonderful barn cat that takes care of the mice and rats for me. |
Member: Tuckern |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 4:31 pm: I just bought a year's supply of hay. I have a 10'x20' x 9' tall barn, and was able to get 160 bales (50-60lb each) in it. I put the bales on pallets to get them off the ground, and left about a foot between the top bale and the roof, because the roof is metal, and it does sweat a little, but not enough to ruin any bales.I have barn cats as well, so I don't have to worry about mice. I personally don't like tarps because they sweat alot more, and as Judith said, if you have newly baled hay, it traps moisture inside, and ruins the hay. In fact, I have a tarp over ten bales right now that didn't fit in the barns, and the last two mornings, when I've uncovered them, the bales are steaming, because the tarps aren't allowing moisture to escape. If you do use tarps, and assuming the hay is dry, I would recommend double or triple tarping it, it might cut down on moisture seeping through. For your question about cycling hay, are you talking about feeding the same type of grass (timothy, orchard, etc.), but buying it from a different person? If that's the case, you would want gradually move your horses to the new hay over a couple of weeks. That's what I do, and haven't had any problems. For three horses, assuming they are not drafts, you'll probably go through about 350-400 bales a year, depending on if they are easy keepers or not. I have two horses, both easy keepers, and they go through 240 bales a year. They are both in a "dry lot" situation, no access to pasture, so all of their food comes from hay. Hope this helps. :0) Nicole |
Member: Cpacer |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 4:31 pm: Thank you both! So what would a structure look like, roof & 3-sides, or more open with the possibility of closure if it rains a bunch? Can the hay bales sit right next to and on top of each other or do they need to be spaced out?Do growing seasons vary by region? |
Member: Cpacer |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 4:36 pm: yes Nicole (looks like we posted at the same time). I'll probably just feed Fescue, and even the local feedshop may vary the supplier so was wondering if that would be considered a food change. |
Member: Jgordo03 |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 5:28 pm: cp,The hay can and should be stacked closely; you will have less waste/loss of the loss hay. The three sided structure sounds fine. Have the open side face east; unless you live on the East cost, then I'm not sure. The reason I say this in the Midwest we seldom get bad weather that comes from the east. The growing seasons and the type of hay vary from region to region. Here in the midwest the only really good horse hay you can grow is brome and alfalfa (but that is a legume) we have some Timothy and Orchard, but it’s not very common. We can grow fescue but there is a nasty fungus infestation that can cause reproduction problems in 99% of the fescue in most of the Midwest. The East coast, West cost, Midwest, and the South all have different hays are conducive their regions and suitable for horses. |
Member: Scooter |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 6:30 pm: Hi, I get my hay by the pickup load and store it in my horse trailer over the winter. We really don't have any extra hay storage for the horses. (the cows get it all), That actually works well if you don't want to put up a shed and don't use your trailer over the winter. I can get about 50 bales in my 2 horse and it lasts my 3 horse about 2 mos. I cover the trailer with a tarp that is bungeed down well and no weather gets in. |
Member: Tuckern |
Posted on Wednesday, Sep 27, 2006 - 7:43 pm: I stack my hay as tight as I can, mostly to take advantage of the space that I do have. My hay barn is three sided, the open side faces east.I know several people who buy from feed stores throughout the year. You might ask your feed stores if they buy hay from the same farmer all year round. I know some around here have contracts with the farmers, and sell only their hay. Either way, to be safe, you might just make sure to overlap your hay purchases. Buy hay when you get down to like 10 bales, that way you can gradually switch the horses over. Nicole |
Moderator: DrO |
Posted on Thursday, Sep 28, 2006 - 7:13 am: Hello cp,Though we often discussed the subject there was not a article on the subject. I have edited the Care for Horses » Nutrition » Forages for Horses, an Overview article to contain information on this important topic. It is under the heading of "Hay Storage". If you are planning on keeping this building close to a minimum size, the amount of space that will depend on the size of your bales, which is set by the farmer and can vary remarkably. Best is to provide plenty of space for good ventilation however. How much hay you are going to need will be calculated by the number of bales you use a day by the 9 month storage time. If you are really asking how much do horses consume, see the article on Nutrition Overview for that information. DrO |
Member: Cpacer |
Posted on Thursday, Sep 28, 2006 - 8:26 am: Great! Thank you all, thank you DrO! |
Member: Imogen |
Posted on Sunday, Oct 1, 2006 - 11:26 am: ... my advice is don't stack the hay directly onto the wall of the structure if you are anywhere damp or if your barn has stone or concrete walls. Leave a space of about 2 inches between the wall and the bales for ventilation otherwise the sides of the bales will get mouldy.All the best Imogen |