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  Discussion on Pulling up from a gallop (UK)
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Member:
Megster

Posted on Friday, Dec 5, 2003 - 4:30 pm:

I have ridden horses for a number of years now and a year ago purchased my own horse, a 16h, 8yr old, Cleveland Bay x TB Mare. She is brilliant to hack, more so than to school as she tends to get a bit above herself (which we are working on). She will canter happily up a wide grass verge alone or in company and is easy to stop. I do, however, sometimes have problems pulling her up as quickly as I would like if we are out in the fields and increase the speed to a gallop. I tend to sit back and deeper in the saddle to pull up and talk to her, usually 'woah' but always seem to end up hauling on the reins at the last minute as she is quite strong at this speed and more intent on enjoying herself than listening to me (particularly in company when it turns into one big race). In canter she is quite different, controlled and really easy to stop. I'd like some advice on this if anyone has any and also any tips on how to train a horse to happily go behind other horses in canter. My mare is quite dominant with other horses and likes to go infront. She tends to get herself in a tizz if expected to go at the back when cantering in company. When I first bought her I thought she was bucking at the back of the ride when cantering but now know that she's changing her leading leg from one to the other as she tends to pull, get too close to the horse in front and then is unable to go forwards steadily. I'm not sure how to deal with this and would like to train her to go first or last. Incidentally for the first 7 years of her life she was always allowed to go first and actively encouraged to - I have a very confident horse as a result which is obviously a bonus. She's ridden in a Myler Comfort Snaffle bit which she is very happy in.
Member:
Christos

Posted on Friday, Dec 5, 2003 - 6:36 pm:

Well, Sarah, I would work on the group attitude first.
Your mare may be dominant towards you, not other horses. I would suggest that you take her out on a hack by yourself. On a good canter, ask her to stop for no apparent reason and stand still for a minute or so. If she can do that, the leading attitude is towards the other horses and not towards you.
Then, on a hack with another reliable horse, try first to keep her next to it. This can be dangerous and is not advisable with inexperienced riders. Next to another horse is no place to have an argument with your mount. Insist that next to another horse means no racing. Do not start a pulling game. If she passes in front, simply circle her back. Again and again. She'll knock it off soon.
Same principle applies to galloping. Ask her to stop or slow down. If she does not, do not start pulling, you will lose. Turn her into as tight a circle as you can without pulling so hard that you start a fight.
And do not switch to severe bits. They rarely fix the problem and many times they make it worse. I have seen meat and blood on the bit and the horse wouldn't slow down...
Member:
Imogen

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 3:06 am:

Sarah I think - don't gallop in fields unless you are hunting or doing a cross country horse. That's my advice as the owner of a pulling 7/8 TB.

If they don't associate stubble with galloping you won't have a problem. And if you are galloping in company, well, what do you expect! Most TB bred horses want to be in front and to gallop as fast as possible. That is what they are bred for.

You can only train so much, you have to work within the bounds of the temperament of the horse - which means planning the type of riding you are going to do and not getting into "bad" patterns of behaviour.

All the best

Imogen
Member:
Imogen

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 3:07 am:

Whoops. Cross country course I meant.

Imogen
Member:
Christos

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 5:59 am:

Imogen is absolutely right.
Galloping, especially on a TB cross, is risky and, unless training for galloping competition, unnecessary. It is too fast and too powerful a situation for most riders.
Most people do not realise what a galloping TB can do at such speed. Well, it can do everything, including bucking, sharp turns and lateral tricks, faster than you can blink your eyes. Not many people enjoy such stunts.
Most TBs reach full speed in less than 5 seconds, and they enjoy doing so. But you can not expect them even to fall in canter so fast, let alone stop. They will seem to disagree very strongly, and, to my opinion, they are right. It takes tremendous effort and a lot of strain and pain to slam on the brakes from a gallop.
Pulling hard on the reins does not work, it just gives them support to bring their weight even more forward and increase speed. A TB that does not use this extra support has little chance of winning a race, for instance. And a jockey that "DrOps" his hands during a race is very likely to lose his licence, for that very reason. This is also the reason most TBs are considered pullers in the gallop. They are not. They just use whatever available, ie the bit, to what they think is your best advantage, ie more speed. You asked for it, after all, didn't you?
It is, actually,possible to train a TB to even stop from a gallop within five strides, but you wouldn't really want to do that. It is too much strain, especially for fine TB bones. And a TB that has learned to slam on the brakes when galloping will sometimes do so for fun, often chipping in a couple of bucks and some side stepping to add to your pleasure. That, in my opinion, makes a dangerous mount for all but the most competent riders.
So please, Sarah, do reconsider the need to gallop. If you must have it, do so gradually and carefully, for yours and your horse's safety.
Member:
Megster

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 8:10 am:

Hello All and thanks for the advice. Incidentally my horse is more Cleveland Bay than TB, so she's quite a stocky mare, more of a hunter, and in no way resembles a racehorse. I rarely argue with my mare out on a hack as she's very good with most things. Thanks Chris for the advice on cantering in company and turning her on a circle if she gets too strong - I'll try that one. Imogen - she's actually fine to do most things with on her own, I can canter her in wide open spaces and ask her to up the speed when it suits and she does tend to come back when I ask. The problem I find with cantering wide open spaces in company is when other people lose control its very difficult to ask your horse to continue in a steady canter when they start being left behind, which is when it turns into a race. I certainly won't be changing her bit as it took me a while to find one that she's comfortable wearing and I agree that stronger bits don't solve problems. Thanks for the advice - there won't be much cantering or galloping until spring as the weather is vile here so I'll see how we go next year.
Member:
Christos

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 11:10 am:

She sounds like a beautiful horse to ride, Sarah.
I think all you need is praising her for every little attempt to slow down when that race occurs. When she kind of "holds" two or three steps, make a fuss of her. Then let her catch up, then hold her again. Slowly and gently extend the holding time until you are way behind the other horse. This is of the most enjoyable moments of riding for me, feeling all the power and anticipation accumulating. She will probably blast out of your hands the first few times you'll actually LET her go, and be a bit tougher to stop, but she'll be fully controllable once she learns the game.
Many fast horses like this game, because it actually means that when they DrOp back a bit they will have a chance to run with all their power to catch up. And all horses love that!
I have actually met two horses that would enjoy it so much that they would put distance between them and the leading horse on their free will, just to get a chance for a catch-up race.
Just keep in mind that varying the distance between horses is not a polite thing to do in a hacking group,unless all other riders in the group do explicitely agree. It can create an accordion effect and lots of excitement in the other horses, which you have experienced yourself already.
And, to all that may read this, always keep in mind that SPEED PLAY IS DANGEROUS. It takes a VERY competent rider and a VERY fit horse to do it safely.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 4:26 pm:

Reading all this, I am a bit perplexed. Even if this TB was off the track, why can't she be trained to stop from a gallop, or dead run for that matter?

Yes, it's a strain...if all the weight is on the forehand.

Imo, you need to teach the horse to shift her weight to the hind end, then teach her to stop. I have a friend who raises TBs, shows and jumps them, and she takes them out and runs them on a dry lakebed near here. She has no trouble stopping. But, she has worked with them to collect and work off their hind ends. She has one that can even do a good sliding stop!

Why would you limit a horse's training to quiet hacks when it's capable of so much more? Why would a TB be more inclined to buck, etc. at a run than Arabian?

I think that if as a rider, you learned to ride with a balanced seat, capable of moving your weight back and forth as needed, and if you worked with the horse using basic dressage techniques, the horse will learn to work off it's hind end-which, btw, causes a lot less stress on the cannon bones and joints. It also enables the horse to move more freely and be more responsive to your requests.

Also, why would a TB's bones be more fragile than an Arabians or some of the other light "hot" breeds?
Member:
Christos

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 5:35 pm:

Of course, Sara, any horse can be trained to stop from any speed. I think that is exactly the point here.
When a horse runs away with a rider aboard, it can not be collected before it quits the idea of running for it's life. When it quits that, it is, of course, stoppable and controllable and it will work off the hind legs if well schooled.
Staying on quiet hacks is not limiting the horse, Sara. There are many people who only enjoy a quiet hack, and their mounts are not less happy or less healthy than mine.
A TB is not more inclined to buck than an Arabian or a QH. I just use TB as an example of a fast horse.
You are absolutely right about dressage principles and balance. But we are not talking a strong canter run here, we are talking flat out racing gallop. And dressage does not work there. Visit a racing stable, if possible, you will see and you may have a chance to feel the difference.
I believe, personally and without scientific data to back it up, that a well conditioned TB has much more power for it's bone than any other breed I know. That gives more wear and tear on the same size of bone.
Member:
Kthorse

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 6:26 pm:

Hi I think you can train your horse to stop as you wish , but it takes a long long time of patience and good horsemanship. Maybe years, depending on personality of the horse. For some reason believing that your horse will listen gets better results than Oh no he wont stop. I dont think I would ever want my horse to stop from a gallop. Slowing to a nice canter first is easier on the horse and the rider. I like the post about slowing and then letting them go horses love that and what a nice reward.
Member:
Rjbraun

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 6:59 pm:

HI ALL,regards to stopping from a gallop .I trained Q.HS,T.BS ARABIANS & MIXS and I agree with Sara Wolff 100%.By the way Sara I Enjoy your input you are very horse wise.Bob.
Member:
Erika

Posted on Saturday, Dec 6, 2003 - 7:37 pm:

Can you stand one more "two cents' worth"? As a foxhunter, we do some pretty good flat-out gallops at times. I consider it essential to stop my horse when necessary. For some reason, even the ones that are tough to stop when hacking out seem to know when I REALLY mean it. For safety sake, I would make sure the horse I am on will stop.
Of course, when riding out alone or with friends I would never expect an emergency stop unless it was just that--an emergency! It is hard on a horse, especially if he hasn't been trained to "sit down" to stop.
I like the circling idea, and the slow-and-go, too. Try to remember that the stop is in the release, not the pull. If the horse doesn't feel some release in response to slowing he has no reason to respond to the pull, other than to brace against it. A good stop only comes from consistent release by the rider every time the horse decides to cooperate.
Love all your ideas on this site. I've been learning a lot from all of you!
Member:
Imogen

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 8:36 am:

I perhaps should clarify - I can stop both my horses for exactly the reason Erika specifies - hunting without brakes is probably the most unsafe equine activity yet invented.

I can also get my 7/8 TB to canter quietly in fields on her own (as Sara can with her halfbred Cleveland/TB) or in company with *a few* well-trained horses.

I just wouldn't go galloping in fields in company on that mare unless I know the other people are sensible/competent and aren't going to allow the horses to get into a race because it just works against all the training that most of the contributors to this thread have been suggesting. I think it's a daft thing to do except in competition/out hunting when you need to because it encourages the "worst" brain-dead speed-merchant traits that horses with TB blood are prone to anyway. There is nothing dafter than a TB with its blood up and it usually takes them 10-15 minutes to calm down after a gallop.

And I agree with Christos about the absolute pleasure of those flat-out gallops when you do have the opportunity! Save them for hunter trials and beach rides (and occasionally when hunting...)

All the best

Imogen
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 10:28 am:

Imogen-I think I misread some of the posts. It's difficult to carry on a "conversation" at times without seeing facial expressions, hearing tone of voice, etc. The fact that I read most of these posts when I'm either very tired or not yet awake doesn't help, either.

Sarah's original post said she couldn't stop her horse at a gallop, esp. when out with other riders who were gallopping. It is essential that you are able to stop a horse when you need to regardless of the circumstances.

I've had problems in this area, too. Trust me, there's not a horse alive that likes to run more than an Arabian! (where do you think your TB's got all that "hot blood.")

I won't take a young horse out with a group if I know they are going to be riding pell mell & out of control. I do a lot of work at slower gaits slowly building up to fast gaits. I work in an arena at first teaching the horse to respond, in this case stop, until I feel comfortable with the horse; then go out in the fields and on the trails. By the time I am riding with others out on the trails I am sure my horse will stop when I ask it to, regardless of gait.

All that being said, like you I won't ride in a group if I think they are going to be racing around out of control. First of all, it's dangerous. You don't know what the footing is like (it's not a groomed race track) and you don't know how the other horses are going to act. And, as you state, it usually turns into an out of control competition as far as the horses are concerned. Even in this situation, however, you should be able to stop your horse (maybe especially in this situation!) But...yes...in a circumstance like this you might need (probably will need) to circle your horse once or twice to get your horse's mind back on you.

btw-another tactic that will keep your horse's mind on you (or get it's mind back) when on the trail is to weave in and out of bushes, occassionaly do a circle here and there, etc.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 10:32 am:

Robert-Thanks for the compliment, but there are other's on this board that have had a lot more training than I have! I love reading all the posts here. It's so nice to be able to "talk" with people that love their animals and are trying to learn, improve their skills, etc. I live in an area where this isn't always the case.
Member:
Penner

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 11:49 am:

Just reading these posts brings back memories as a kid, when the terrain was that nice black firm dirt that I used to gallop on, (yes, & match races with the other kids on a 1/4 mi grassy straightaway with a big field at the end, to circle in to slow down!)

I do miss the running (altho not the snow & mud). Here its all rocky & hard, hard concrete-like ground, so no running/racing except in the groomed arena.

So, I too tho, agree (& used) circling to slow down (& fairly big circles too, as one can pull a horse over if one tries to do a sharp circle in a gallop).

Thanks for the memories!
Member:
Megster

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 12:24 pm:

Thanks Chaps /chapesses for all of the advice - its good to hear about all of your experiences. I too really like the suggestion about playing with slow down, catch up techniques - its definitely another one I'll try and I have some reliable friends to try this with. I should add though that my original comments have been misinterpreted a bit as I have never 'not been able' to stop my horse from a gallop - she always starts to listen after 4 - 5 seconds and comes back to me (feels like longer when you are on board though) and I dont' expect her to stop straight away. My expectation is for her to slow down obediently when I ask into a steady canter, then trot etc. I do also practice pull and release techniques - the problem is that I do have to pull quite hard before she starts to listen and I can give the reins again. She has never run away with me so that I have felt completely out of control but I don't like having to use the pressure of the bit so much. I am very lucky in that one minute I can have a blast up a field and the next I can calmly walk her round the fields on a long rein - I have friends whose horses are fired up for the rest of the hack if they do the same. I think some of the techniques above will really help me though so thanks. Unfortunately in the UK its a rare privaledge to have the 'trails' that you describe in the US unless you trailer your horse to them. We tend to have to put up with road hacks through the winter with the odd canter up a wide grass verge in the UK until Spring. I am fortunate in that I keep my horse on a haylage farm so when the grass is cut I have access to acres of fields to ride in. They aren't really big enough to have a true flat out 'racing' gallop and I don't have the courage for that anyway. We usually end up cantering, with a few seconds of gallop before having to think about slowing down. I guess this is why I am so interested in your ideas - its amazing how quickly the opposite end of the field approaches once you start off!! I also agree, if you have the opportunity to ride off road on safe ground, and you can train your horse to be obedient, there is nothing more exhilarating for you and your horse than a good, fast canter or gallop, either on your own, or in company. I also feel it would be a real shame to limit this to a cross country course. Thanks again - look forward to reading any responses tomorrow.
Member:
Christos

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 1:09 pm:

I think we all interpret words differently. Or is it my English? Let's try numbers.
I call it gallop when the diagonal separates. That is 4-beat and usualy 40+ miles per hour on a fast horse. Anything less, I think is strong canter.
The mare I am riding these days can and will, if asked, stop dead from 55 mph in five steps. Other horses flying by or not.
All I have been saying is that this is an extreme and one should not attempt without full understanding of how things work. The horse being a little tired, the rider wobbling a bit, one little hole in the ground, and you may hear things snap.
The poor animal will always perform, if trained properly. Manytimes, unfortunately, to it's destruction. That is the only point I have been trying to make here. Be careful of how you pull your horses from full speed. It is not as simple as it sounds.
Member:
Mrose

Posted on Sunday, Dec 7, 2003 - 3:21 pm:

Christos, your English is perfect! And, I agree with your post.

I guess I do take the many trails here for granted. I live in an area where, if you wanted to, you could ride for hundreds of miles without seeing another person. Most of our established trails are shared usage-hikers, mountain bikers, and horses. Only near town, the resorts and on holidays do you meet other people.
Member:
Gillb

Posted on Monday, Dec 8, 2003 - 5:06 pm:

Hi Sarah, I also live in the UK and have a horse who is similar to yours, he is a purebred Morgan. He tends to be reactive and flighty although he is not too strong and I can generally control him. When he was younger I had a lot of trouble with him getting over excited and turning for home was a real problem, but over the years we have got to the point where I can canter/gallop him on the home stretch and pull him up safely.

However, riding out in company is a different matter and like yourself I generally have to be in front. I also have to choose my companions carefully as any horse with a tendency to tank off would ignite the touch paper in mine! I have a safe and sensible pony who does not hot up but the pair of them will race if ridden side by side in canter.

My horse is not uncontrollable but does tend to blow a fuse sometimes in company, for that reason I do not ride out with many other horses and stick to those who I know won't provoke this reaction.

He will always be a horse I will have to be careful of and know his limitations; I don't think I could ever take him hunting or ride out in a herd as his flighty and sensitive personality could not cope sensibly!
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Monday, Dec 15, 2003 - 3:30 pm:

I agree with Sara ... horse needs to learn to respond and not fight. Never be afraid to go back to round pen even with experienced horses. I have found that working on one rein stops at walk and trot help to discipline also for the gallop. Another good point is the release and pull. The more you pull, the harder they go sometimes. Sometimes, its back to basics. I want my horses to learn to gallop as well as walk but remember, you can't do anything at a gallop that you can't do at walk or trot.
Member:
Megster

Posted on Tuesday, Jan 6, 2004 - 3:54 pm:

Dennis, can you explain what you mean by a 'one rein' stop? We seem to speak a slightly different horsey language here in the UK. Is this the same as we refer to here as a 'half halt'?
Sarah
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Tuesday, Jan 6, 2004 - 4:36 pm:

Sarah.. don't know what a "half halt" is so it may be the same. By one rein stop, I mean to work from a walk first and just gently pull one rein up by your thigh until the horse flexes its neck and starts to turn. Hold the pressure until the horse stops completely, then release immediately. Repeat on both sides until you get the results you want. You may then proceed to the trot and eventually into the lope. Be prepared however, that you may go around in circles for a while until the horse begins to understand what you are looking for. It is critical not to release until stopped, otherwise they are just learning to turn quickly. I find this has 2 other positive effects. 1.) By repeating the exercise on both sides and at walk and trot, it is a small move to improve collection. 2.)It ingrains into the rider the proper reflex if a horse starts to run off by pulling in immediately before horse reaches speed, and it is quite helpful if the potential runaway has been through this drill numerous times. The horses new reflex is to stop. At least that is my experience in working primarily with quarter horses and appaloosa's in western disciplines. I too enjoy learning all the different terms and methods here. Sometimes we forget we're communicating internationally here instead of just talking to the cowboy on the other side of the fence. Thanks to you all.
Member:
Aewheele

Posted on Wednesday, Jan 7, 2004 - 8:46 am:

Sarah, A half halt, the way I understand it, is used to collect, rebalance, and steady your horse but remain within the working gait. The one rein stop is specifically used to stop the horse as soon as possible without getting into a pulling match with the horse. By using one rein to turn the horse in a small circle, it forces the horse to slow and bend and it refocuses his attention back to you, the rider. Once that's done, he should become more manageable. As Dennis mentioned, it is very important to make sure the horse comes to a full stop before releasing the rein.

Regards.
Member:
Terrilyn

Posted on Wednesday, Jan 7, 2004 - 4:03 pm:

Dennis--
I have a nagging question about the one-rein stop. Most of my riding is out on trails, and I have a mare like Gill's and Sarah's--very unhappy to be held back, wants to be first in line, and if others take off in front us she's off like a shot...she'll do just about anything to keep up with a group if they take off (or even if they get a bit ahead), flying over muddy or uneven footing...and she scares me to death. I've been advised by others to use the one-rein stop, but my question is, if you are on a trail bordered on both sides by trees or other forest-related obstacles, will she stop? I have this image of her crashing off into the pines and me pulling on that rein, but not being able to pull her in a circle because there just isn't room for one...how should I apply this technique in the woods?
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Thursday, Jan 8, 2004 - 11:15 am:

Terri ... As we all know, anything can happen and our job is to be prepared, and have our horse prepared as much as possible. The plan in these one rein stop exercises is to ingrain the response of stopping, and not just turning fast circles. That is why it is so important to time the release with the full stop. The hope is that the learned response of the horse is to stop immediately with the rein pull and avoid those potential disasters you mention. That is why it is so important to repeat this drill often, and from all speeds getting the proper response. You will find that your horse will react with a "stop" very quickly. Although emergency situation response may be a little scarey, it is good to know that both rider and horse have prepared for this and have developed a reflex action that works .... we hope. If the horse insists on continuing the circles, instead of stopping, we just need more repetitions. As Christos mentioned earlier, horses are basically lazy and will soon learn that stopping immediately is a lot easier than going around in circles. This may not work every time on the trail, but trust me .... digging in the stirrups and pulling the reins back will never stop a panicking horse.. it just gives them leverage to lean on. Good luck...
Member:
Terrilyn

Posted on Thursday, Jan 8, 2004 - 11:43 am:

Dennis--
I had an idea that's what you meant...But so many times I've read or heard people say, "Oh! Use the one rein stop in a runaway situation!" I've never understood how it could be that effective...in fact, the idea of a horse going full speed being pulled into a tight circle all of a sudden sounded like a fast, efficient way to dismount... Thanks for the clarification and tips on how to instill it as reflex. Makes sense.
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Thursday, Jan 8, 2004 - 11:59 am:

Terri ... You are absolutely right about the dismount.... When I was about 16, and knew it all, I had a runaway situation that ended that way. As I said, I was 16 and on a horse that should not have left the roundpen yet, let alone be on a trail by myself. Long story short, runaway fast ... pull head to side as far as I could ... horse loses balance ... horse and rider on ground... UGLY .. but a learning experience I guess. Never short cut ground work and round pen exercises.
Member:
Megster

Posted on Thursday, Jan 8, 2004 - 1:04 pm:

That does indeed sound UGLY....I had a similar experience parting company with my mount and whilst it was ugly for me, I think the horse thoroughly enjoyed himself. I was on an ex racer that I didn't know, who I had been told was a sensible hack. We attempted a civilised canter across a big field in company and he decided he was back on the racetrack and took off. It seemed like quite good fun until I realised he wasnt going to slow up as we fast approached the hedge. After a couple of failed attempts to pull him up, I did what I had always been taught, sat back in my seat and started what was intended to be a number of pull, releases on my left rein, to which he unfortunately took as 'turn' rather than 'stop' and as he went in one direction, I went the other and hit the ground like a sack of potatoes. Although I intend to try the 'one rein stop' technique I have to say I would only practice it on my own horse whom I can train to understand what I am asking over time. It still hurts when I think about it and I will never again assume that another horse knows what I mean when I ask him to steady up in this way. Interestingly, when we arrived back at the yard we were greeted by the owner of this sensible hack saying 'well, he's never done that before, although it is the first time he's been out with the other horses' - what a shame nobody shared that with me beforehand!. I'm sure people will smile reading this though, just as I do when hearing about other people's hair raising experiences - they always seem funnier when they aren't your own!
Member:
Kthorse

Posted on Thursday, Jan 8, 2004 - 7:49 pm:

Hi,
If you practice the one rein stop consistintly before you go out on trails in a safe place your horse should know as soon as you pick up the rein and will stop rather than turn. They know the difference. Dont ask me how. They know with lots of practice what you want whether it be a turn or to stop. Fortunatly I have never had a horse run away with me even ones not trained for this. In my mind a bolting horse is so scary I will without thinking grab that rein and stop him. The fear of the horse or me falling is nothing compared to letting them bolt. Bolting is my biggest fear and I guess thats why I refuse to let it happen. The spinning in a circle is something I can deal with. Fortunatly my instincts take over before I think about what to do. If I thought about it. Now thats scary.
Practice in a safe place and you will not have to worry when out on trails. Think in your head stop while you practice. It slightly changes your body messages so they know the difference. I rode an old gelding bareback last weekend. He is nice and queit so I thought lets go for a nice canter in the field, he thought yippee and for a few strides took off, but all I thought in my head was stop and he was back in control with the one rein stop. This is a horse that I have only ridden a few times before and I havent really ridden bareback in 20 years so my seat isnt the best. Like I said I dont know how they can tell but beleive me they can.
Katrina
Member:
Megster

Posted on Friday, Jan 9, 2004 - 8:32 am:

Katrina, I think you are very brave to ride a horse bareback in an open field. The most I dare to do with my horse bareback is ride her to her stable from the field in the summer which is a shame as its such a nice experience for both of us.
Sarah
Member:
Christos

Posted on Friday, Jan 9, 2004 - 10:14 am:

Katrina, Dennis has explained it earlier.
They know the difference from how long you block that rein. If you block it for, say, half a second, give and repeat, it is turning. If you block it a bit more and then release, it is falling back, so to say, in trot. If you hold it blocked, it is a stop. Notice that we are talking only blocking the "give" on the rein, not stiffening the hands or, God forbid, pulling backwards.
You probably do it naturally right, so you don't realise how they tell the difference.
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