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  Discussion on How To Get Horse to Accept Bit For First Time
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Member:
Dartanyn

Posted on Monday, Feb 2, 2004 - 3:25 pm:

This is sad, because I wouldn't leave this sort of thing so long on a horse; but found out while starting to back my 4-5 year old quarterhorse, that the training my father paid to have done on him did not include any bitting although he naturally thought it did. I have brought him along to take the saddle, stirrups moving around at his sides, he leads beautifully with either the halter or hackamore, I've ponied him quite a few times without a hitch, and he behaves well on the ground with me and others too. The issue is that I had planned on working him new with a hackamore/bosel but I can't be his first backer unless I'm willing to wade through the next few months as I have an injured knee. The gentleman I have that is willing to do it insists on the horse being bitted with either a snaffle or a gentle curb, THIS is how I found out he had never had anything in his mouth! Any suggestions on getting him to accept the bit? The only work I've done with him since this discovery is to hold the head gear or unbuckle it and place it over his ears and ask him to calm down while it is near his muzzle area. I can get that out of him, which to me was improvement over the head tossing he did initially to having the bit only placed at his teeth by the gentleman. Let me know how to logically (in the horse's mind) proceed....it would be Oh, so appreciated! He is such a worthwhile, good tempered beast - I don't want any negatives in the initial ground work for him and include bitting in that. Thanks ahead of time, Dawn! (And Tony Pony!)
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Monday, Feb 2, 2004 - 4:18 pm:

Dawn ... I start a lot of colts, and this is the method that works well for me. First, the groundwork with placing head in proper position. Right hand on top of head with light pressure releasing each time head lowers until the colt learns to put head in position on cue. I will then rub the nose and mouth area with my left hand, right hand still rubbing or petting at head and ear area. I wil then use lead rope in right hand as I position the head and eventually grab other end of lead with left hand and continue rubbing and petting with the rope. I then use the same procedures with a halter, pulling it on and off using both hands as I would with a bridle and bit. The next step is to get the colt used to handling mouth and tongue, which is also necessary for worming, medications, etc. This is all just part of the general desensitizing exercises. I then teach the cue to open mouth by placing fingers inside mouth near the back where there are no teeth. I move fingers between top of tongue and roof of mouth until he opens, then I remove. Eventually, they will learn this cue with just the left thumb inserted into the side of the mouth. Only when this is accomplished, should you try to put bit in mouth. This is important because you also want the horse to open mouth to remove the bit basically spitting it out instead of getting caught on teeth and scaring and possibly hurting the horse. Then I will work with the bridle headband in the right hand reaching over the head and guiding the bit with the left hand using the thumb cue to open while pulling up from the top. Get the horse to accept and remove the bit equally as well before completing the bridling. This sounds like a lot, but does not typically take a lot of time .... but don't rush it. It is important for many things you do with your horse as I said earlier with worming etc. This has always worked well for me. I hope this helps.
Member:
Dartanyn

Posted on Monday, Feb 2, 2004 - 6:21 pm:

Great instructions Dennis; just a few clarifications as I mimed most all of what you outlined above to see if I understood your instructions.

On "get the horse to accept and remove the bit equally as well before completing..." do you mean that I would at this point of the training: slip the bit in for only a moment or two and then right back out? Or, tolerate it without actually anchoring the headstall on for several minutes?

Also, on the preliminary training you're suggesting with fingers (I did start working that direction already), would it be correct/logical to remove my fingers the way the bit would be removed? Or, for safety's sake, the same way I can get them in: by the side of his mouth?

I greatly appreciate your details, very easy to follow! Dawn
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Monday, Feb 2, 2004 - 11:57 pm:

Dawn,
I am interested to know if the training of the horse included round penning him, because I have never had a problem bitting any horse once it has been round penned and has learned to trust the human as the dominant half of the partnership . . .

You will want to do as Dennis says to desensitize the horse to having his mouth handled, especially since he MAY need to have the vet or dentist look at his mouth . . . Teeth problems may be the reason he doesn't want to accept a bit.
Member:
Gillb

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 4:39 am:

Hi Dawn, if I had a youngster to be bitted who was fussy in his mouth I'd start off by rubbing my fingers on his gums with something he liked such as honey or molasses. When he was used to me doing this I'd use a Nathe bit, which is basically soft plastic and not as hard and unyeilding as a metal bit. All horses I've known to use this bit don't object to it at all. I would smear it with the honey or molasses that I had been rubbing on his gums. I'd then allow him to inspect the bit by holding it at his mouth.

I would just use the bit attached to the cheek/head piece and no other part of the bridle, so you haven't got too much leather to fiddle around with.

I found that with horses that put their heads up out of my reach (I am quite short), what worked for me was to stand on a stool next to them so I was much taller and they couldn't raise their heads out of the way. They usually stopped trying! I also taught my horse to lower his head on cue, which is a great help.

I would agree with Holly to first eliminate anything in his mouth that could be causing a problem. The advice Dennis has given for actualy getting the horse to open his mouth by inserting your thumb is pretty much how I do it.

When I remove the bit I take the bridle over my horse's head, let him hold the bit and release it when he is ready, so I am never yanking it out and catching his teeth.
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 8:27 am:

Dawn .. Initially, I do it just like the give and release. Once he takes the bit, I let him spit it out as soon as he wants to, thus the release. Increasing the time in the mouth each time. This is a good time to let him learn how to spit it out. I remove it exactly as Gill said, holding the headstall with the right hand over the head and letting the horse release it. As far as removing fingers, I take them out the same way I put them in, but I do work from both sides. I also get them used to me pulling the tongue out to the side and holding open for a while, once again, both sides. This not only helps in bridling, but the vet sure appreciates a horse that doesn't object to these actions.
good luck ... I think you got it. Keep us posted as to your progress as we all learn from these threads.
DT
Member:
Dartanyn

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 11:16 am:

Hollywood, yes - quite a bit of round penning must have been done; but my father could only pay for 30 days of training before our shipping date here. He is very easy to lunge - but still not quite 100% focused. Good clean bill of health and soundness for the Utah vet; my vet gets a look at him in the next month or so.

Gill, I'll look around for one of those bits; never heard of them, but hopefully the tack supply stores in our area have; it does sound ideal not to have any clanking going on for the first couple of times getting him to take and release the bit.

Dennis, thank you very much for the followup information - that's what I was wondering. Yep, think I have enough information to either carry this through - or really make a mess of it! (smile)

Great help everyone! Far better for me to get the necessary information here and try it myself as he has a great trust factor with me; than keep passing him into different hands to show me while he perfects different phobias. Thank you All! Dawn (will let you know how it all sifts out)
Member:
Goolsby

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 12:30 pm:

Dennis
I have two new colts 8 and maybe 5 mo. old. I have only begun to mess with thier mouths and would like to follow your advice. At what age do you actually put the bit in their mouth?
Colleen
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 2:15 pm:

Colleen ....
Genearlly, I do some work as yearlings when possible. It's nice to be able to lunge and some driving prior to actually starting under saddle. Just have to be careful not to get in to pulling matches which can hurt, or at least discourage young ones. I use a full cheek snaffle which also helps limit too much mouth pull. Serious work doesn't start until they are 2 year olds. A lot depends on you and your horse, but I wouldn't get in a big hurry to start the bit. Lord knows there's a lot of other things we can do with the young ones. It's never too soon to start working with the mouth area however.
DT
Member:
Goolsby

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 2:41 pm:

Dennis
I am definately in no hurry to start with a bit. I still have lots of work to do in other areas. Have you ever used bitless bridles. I was concidering trying to go bitless with my colts, but I have never used them before. I would still like to have them accustom to a bit as well.
Colleen
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 3:34 pm:

Colleen ..
I have never used them but I know people who do. Quite honestly, I'm and old western rider, and I have never heard a good reason not to use a bit. I know a lady who trail rides with us occasionally uses a bitless bridle. When I asked her the reasoning behind this, she did not know. I have used hackamores but this still gives me some leverage and control, just no bit. Other than a sore mouth or something, I don't know why I would go bitless. Maybe someone can jump in here and educate me. I use the full cheek snaffle until I get neck reining mastered, then go to a standard medium port curb bit. Honestly though, I would like to understand the reasoning for no bit ... I'm a little dumb on this matter.
Member:
Goolsby

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 4:10 pm:

Dennis
I am quite dumb on this matter myself. I also ride western and like yourself I used a snaffle first on my appy then moved to curb bit and have continued to use curb bit on my other two horses. On this site or maybe another there was much discussion on bitless bridles and barefoot riding. Many ideas were that bitless is easier on the horses mouth and that bits are not necessary. Other comments went as far as to say bits and shoes were forms of abuse. Anyway, the arguements sounded reasonable so I thought about trying the bitless bridle with my mares, but frankly I am a little leary of changing. Thought it might be easier (on me) to start the young ones out bitless. Since you always seem to have good, sound advice and experience with foals, I wanted to get your take on it.
Thanks
Colleen
Member:
Kthorse

Posted on Tuesday, Feb 3, 2004 - 8:15 pm:

I love the bitless bridle. Not a hackamore. the bridle by Dr cook. I use it for trail riding etc. my horse loves it and its as gentle as a halter.. I dont think there is anything wrong with bits.I dont like hackamores. We used to have one for an old stock horse when I was a kid. The thing scared me. I know as a kid I did not have the strength to hurt the horse but knowing how it works , scared me.
However I would definaltly teach them to accept a bit. But only when you are ready to soon start with the saddle and mounting. No need in my opinion to bit them till they are ready to accept a rider. When you first put a bit in work them a little then take it straight out. Dont just put them in a bit and leave them to get used to it. A bit means work or concentration only.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Katrina
Member:
Dtranch

Posted on Wednesday, Feb 4, 2004 - 10:31 am:

Colleen ... Thanks for the compliment and confidence. I just don't know enough about the bitless method to offer an opinion .. just my personal preference. I am certain that the bits I use do not hurt the horse and would never use those severe bits that do. In my opinion, any problem that makes you consider a severe bit is really a problem with training and you should just go back and figure out what you did wrong. I guess I do ride a lot in round pen, and training arena with just a halter and such .. just never thought of going out without my bit and bridle. I just think every horse, no matter how gentle or well trained has the potential to spook and bolt, and I just feel more in control with a bit... but that's just me. As Katrina says, both she and her horse love it so it must be OK, just not for me.
DT
Member:
Gingin

Posted on Thursday, Feb 5, 2004 - 8:24 pm:

I switched to the Bitless Bridle 2 years ago and would never think about going back to a bit. I don't show my horse and therefore am not in need of riding with a bit. For the longest time I was under the impression that you need a bit to have control of the horse and to have "stopping power"...well, I have since learned that irrespective of whether my horse has a bit in her mouth, or a bosal or hackamore or rope halter, bitless bridle, sidepull or even just a rope around the neck, all these things are communication devices and if you have trained your horse to respond to them, they all in essence give you the same control. We went from shanked bit to ring snaffle to Myler Level one bit to bitless bridle and during this transition, I taught my mare how to yield to pressure and what it means when something "pushes" her head or neck around. We went from stiff-backed and fighting the bit (shanked bit)to head shaking (ring-snaffle and myler bit) and resistance to stopping and backing to being completely smooth and responsible even with just a rope halter and lead rope or even just a rope around her neck.
I have become a much better rider during this transition and know that if I were to put her in a bit tomorrow and if I continue to give her clear cues, it will NOT matter how I communicate with her, as long as she knows what I mean.....

so......I guess it all comes down to what you expect from the training of your horse, now much time you will spend on the ground to get control and responsiveness and what you intend to do with your horse later on....but there is one thing I am now convinced of...bits do not guarantee control and its communication that matters.

Christine
Member:
Iride2

Posted on Sunday, Mar 14, 2004 - 7:19 pm:

I have a appaloosa mare, we sent her to a
trainer to train her for western pleasure. To put it bluntly, she was badly handled. To this day, you put a bit in her mouth she will respond
to you but asking her to change from the walk to the trot or trot to the lope she is nervous. You feel like she would like to buck but she doesn't. I tried a bosal and she didn't respond. (They put a high port bit in her mouth when training) Any suggestions to winning her trust with the bit. I use an o-ring snaffle. Sandy
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Sunday, Mar 14, 2004 - 10:58 pm:

Sandy,

Do I understand you to mean that when you ask for upward transitions, the mare gets a little frantic?

If so, I suggest only doing lots of walk to halt transitions, using your seat along with the reins to ask for halt . . . give the mare a second or so of verbal warning before you ask for the halt with physical cues. I have found that if I ask by holding one rein first, to get the horse to give his nose to the side, and then add the other rein for a halt, that I get a softer halt. By that, I mean that the nose will come down instead of having the horse pull at the bit. Eventually, you can combine the two reins simultaneously, when the mare understands that when your elbows tighten and your weight DrOps down into your seat that a halt is expected. Even if your mare knows canter, I would stick to walk/halt . . . until I have her complete willingness and relaxation, and then I would add an occasional upward transtion . . . Be sure to give the mare time between the transitions . . . don't switch every couple of seconds.

I do not use curb bits anymore in my work, but a high port bit is fine . . . it's severity depends on the bend in the shank, the tightness of the curb chain/strap, and the softness of the rider's arms and hands.

Whenever a horse exhibits insecurity or nervousness, go back to something the horse knows well and is comfortable doing . . . That will allow time for the mare to build her confidence back and relax and start to trust . . . That, along with praise, and your dedication to taking it slowly and to be sensitive to the readiness of the horse's mind to move forward to the next step, will help your mare soften and trust.

Best to you both.

Member:
Iride2

Posted on Monday, Mar 15, 2004 - 10:33 am:

Holly, Yes, she gets frantic and doesn't want to
respond. The trainer was aggressive with her when he was riding. The bit was a c-shank cathedral. She is such a nice mare, I really hate
to see her just stand. I show her in halter and showmanship but I know she has the ability to do so much more.
Member:
Hwood

Posted on Monday, Mar 15, 2004 - 1:56 pm:

Some horses just can't take being pushed . . . others deal with it in a very matter-of-fact way. Your trainer didn't listen to this horse.

It is obvious that you are listening to her. She will tell you how fast you can go with her. Be firm and respectful with her . . . in other words, don't be a pushover out of pity for her, but find the things she can do comfortably, without getting frantic, and work on those for awhile. Gentle hands, immediate release of pressure when you start to see her trying, and praise when she chooses correctly . . . all will help build up her confidence and trust in her handler.

I have sent you a private e-mail, Sandy.
Best to you,
Holly
Member:
Lhenning

Posted on Monday, Mar 15, 2004 - 3:13 pm:

Hi Sandy,

My 3 year-old had teeth issues which caused him to become extremely sensitive to a bit. Rather than keep forcing him before we corrected his dental problems, I switched him to a beetle hackamore. I found the results so good, I am still using it. He responds to the lightest touch, yet I have excellent control. He stays totally relaxed while I put it on him, which never happened with a bit. I do want to transition him back to a bit one day, but I am in no hurry. I couldn't tell from your profile if you ride English or Western, but this may be a good temporary solution.

Linda


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