Site Menu:
This is an archived Horseadvice.com Discussion. The parent article and menus are available on the navigation menu below: |
HorseAdvice.com » Training, Behavior, & Conditioning Horses » Western Riding Skills » Western Riding Skill topics not covered by the above » |
Discussion on MILD curb bit??? Is there such a thing? | |
Author | Message |
Member: Sunny66 |
Posted on Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 - 4:26 pm: My guy needs to get used to a curb if I show him western pleasure...but he DISLIKES them GREATLY.I'm looking for the mildest curb bit I can find that I can still show in. btw...I've never ridden him in a curb, but my trainer has and he can't stand it...and yes she has very light hands (;) TIA!! |
Member: Cowgrl |
Posted on Wednesday, Jun 16, 2004 - 5:43 pm: I used a very mild curb on two of our horses. The first was accustomed to a hackamore but he hated it and wouldn't DrOp his head to drink with it on. I switched to a very low port, short shank curb and he loved it! He was very comfortable with it and had no problem drinking while bridled.We used the same bit on our other horse and he would actually reach out and take it in his mouth. So he didn't mind it at all. We ride our horses on as loose a rein as we can so they are happy and relaxed. How often has your trainer ridden him with the bit? Maybe he's just not used to it if she has very light hands. Does the bit have a high port and long shanks? Maybe the port is too high for your horse and is causing pain hitting him in the roof of the mouth. Good luck |
Member: Terrilyn |
Posted on Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 - 8:38 am: I have often read that a curb bit is not a harsh bit at all, and two of my three horses go in curbs and are very happy with them. Consider the way a broken bit operates in a horse's mouth, squeezing and tightening and sometimes pinching....and look at a curb which does none of those things. Another important thing to consider is the type of steering intended for snaffle bits vs. shank bits (and I'm assuming your curb has some type of shank on it). Shank bits are not designed to be used for direct reining. So if you aren't neck reining with your curb bit, that could be part of the problem. Take a look at the shank and its length (as Holly notes above, hers is short). That's where the "bite" is with a curb bit...the mouthpiece itself is actually kinder than a broken bit. Just some things to think about... |
Member: Hwood |
Posted on Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 - 9:40 am: A curb bit has several components that add to it's ability to apply pressure to a horse's mouth and jaw.The shanks are responsible for increasing the amount of leverage and "poundage" applied by the hands. The longer the shanks, the more pressure is multiplied and the gentler the rider has to be with his/her hands. Actually, the curb doesn't work as a curb unless it has a curb chain or strap. Certainly, a leather curb strap will be milder than a chain, and a double link chain (when the links are not twisted) is much milder and smoother against the horse's jaw bones than a single link chain. The tighter the curb chain or strap, the less the rider should use his/her hands. The curb bit actually applies pressure (pinches, if you will) to the bars of the horses mouth and the underside of his jaw simultaneously . . . That is why many horses get into head throwing with a curb . . . if the rider is unaware of the amount of pressure he/she is applying by pulling back on the reins, then the horse can get a heck of a squeeze on the jaw . . . and his head tossing is a way to try to relieve that pain. Yes, one can not effectively direct rein with a curb, as when one rein is held back, the entire bit is tipped in the horses's mouth and will gouge the horse's face and pinch one side of his jaw with the chain or strap. A direct rein bit (snaffle) is designed to send a direct signal to the horse's mouth, i.e., right rein back holds horse's head to the right; left rein back holds the horse's head to the left. Much easier for the horse to understand. In either bit, the circumference of the mouthpiece, as well as it's formation (twisted mouthpiece, high port, spade), and the sensitivity of the rider in using his/her hands to apply pressure is what determines the severity of the bit. If your horse neckreins well, Aileen, he will be working more off the reins and your leg/seat cues than anything else, and there should be no need for any pressure on the bit, except maybe for a cue to halt. As always, be sure the bit is sitting correctly in the horses's mouth (doesn't hit any teeth), is wide enough for the horse's mouth (doesn't pinch the corners) and tastes good to the horse (copper and sweet iron often get a better reception than stainless steel or chrome). . . Whatever bit you decide upon, be sure you keep your signals light . . . Be consistent in your asking, and don't stop asking until you get what you want . . . give a release and praise . . . and your horse will stay light and happy. ![]() |
Member: Sunny66 |
Posted on Thursday, Jun 17, 2004 - 10:49 am: Wow! GREAT info!! Thanks much ladies!My trainer can cue him with seat and legs, however, I'm not sure I'm good enough yet...I've been "neckreining" him in the snaffle during cooldowns...he sort of has the idea with me in the saddle...but we need to work on it more before I actually RIDE with the curb. I was told that he needs to be lunged in the curb for him to get used to it, so I wanted to start doing that, while I'm teaching him to neckrein. btw, he's also going to the dentist (;) just in case that's an issue. Thanks again...and I'm sure I'll be back with more questions once I'm in the saddle with the curb bit!! ![]() |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Sunday, Jun 20, 2004 - 3:02 am: Hi, all,For the first few sessions with a curb, I use to replace the chain with a piece of rubber. A rubber ring cut out of an inner tube works well. It helps to smoothen out the sudden, "dry" action of a curb that surprises and frightens some horses, it stabilises the mouthpiece when on a long rein and it doesn't dangle around and make a young horse nervous or playful. |