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Discussion on Mustang Challenge
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 2:39 pm:
Hi, started my own thread after reading this area and my awareness of our Country's threat on the Mustang and BLM dilemna. So, I went ahead and adopted a 15mo gelding who is so far (three days now) pretty submissive. We've had two incidents of trying to get over or threw a fence but (whew) no problem cuts, only ego bruises. He's in his halter and we can pet his head between the eyes, his neck, his ears. I'm working on halter off and on with a lead line. I've done a little round pen trotting and his own excitement caused his panic canter. I just sit with him and talk very calmly and move about in the round pen like its no big deal. I want to make sure I establish the boss issue with him. My two mares and gelded donkey stay close and curious and have the run of our acreage. I am preparing a new corral area so I can use my pen. I am looking for any suggestions - I have a pretty good book or maybe there's something else. Just asking for any other "tricks" you all may know to start with the lead rope and lead training. While some of my friends may think I'm crazy for getting involved I'm going to believe I did a great service to the horse especially the Mustang plight. I do not have a name yet - leaning towards Shelby - my hubby's idea.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 3:08 pm:
Worry less about round pen for now and develope a close bond by just hanging out with your boy! The key word is PATIENCE . They see the world slightly different than a domestic horse Trust is everything ! Have had mine for 8yrs now and worked with 8 others, they will teach you more than you can imagine! Groom him they love scratches and head rubs. Which reminds me a mustang is very effective using his head as a weapon, just beware. Ours never bucked or bit or struck out with a hoof but he did leave when things got too intense and leave they can and you won't be able to stop him. Hence back to trust and going slow very slow he will be your best friend in the end!Shelby mustang good one!! Cindy ENJOY 
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 4:00 pm:
Thanks Cindy I have been doing just exactly as you say giving him an Op to move in and learn his friends. Today he laid down I'm sure because of his frantic episode this a.m. He has a slight cough but then he is on a dirt round pen. I am feeding him Alfalfa and some Oat hay - half of each in the a.m. and p.m. and have some pelleted wormer I want to try to get in him. Since he cleans up his food pretty well, I hope he's getting enough. I have some Bermuda pellets but haven't tried those and quite frankly do not need to fatten him up. Do young horses colic easy? I've had one experience only with colic and this is my first young horse. Thanks all.
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Member:
babychop
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 5:07 pm:
Oh, please post photos! I'm sure everyone would love to share in your journey.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 6:13 pm:
Joann, mustangs by nature are tough eaters! By that I mean alfalfa maybe to rich for him Grass hay works best if you can. Whiskey puts on and takes off weight on his own its amazing to watch. He loves donuts and carrots.Fresh water is very important to mustangs. They drink far more at one time than a regular horse. Think it comes from "when you find water DRINK "it may be awhile to the next drink.One can actually see the water fevel DrOp in the tank after Whiskey drinks!!They learn by observation better than most which also goes along with living wild.Shredded carrots or applesauce might work for wormer. Try a little of each don't be surprised if the first few attempts get spit out that will change! Where is your mustang from mine is Beatty Butte area its the border area between Ore and Nev. I vote for pictures too! Cindy
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 6:37 pm:
I agree with the post by Cindy ... Mustangs have a VERY special sensitivity and once they trust you you've pretty much bonded more deeply than you can ever imagine. And yes, grass hay is about all he'll need with a good vitamin/mineral/salt supplement. ABC Plus makes a vitamin supplement called ABC PLUS FORTIFIED and that is amazing stuff ... all organic. I feed my Mustang mare as well as all the domestics and can see the difference in a week's time when I run out! Blech!
Here is a photo of my mustang:
https://www.thepenzancehorse.com/2007/HORSES/CHEYENNE%20STANDING%20PROFILE%20B.jp g
She had just come here at that photo ... got the halter off her and vrooooooom! Couldn't get near her for another 3 weeks to start working on getting the halter back on! She was a long 3 year old and had already been through 6 auction houses and 5 owners! Scars in her poll from embedded ropes ... couldn't get near the poor girl. But now, a year later, she's a pocket pony as long as we follow "the rules" and don't push TOO hard. Then she's off again BUT ... is quick to return if we change our pressure with extended apologies. She is VERY sensitive and way different from my PMU filly I adopted wild when she was 4 months old. She's pretty laid back ... 1/2 appy and 1/2 draft/Belgian. Doesn't much care about anything.
Enjoy your guy!!! If you listen very closely he'll have much to teach you.
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Member:
lhenning
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 7:16 pm:
Wow, Gwenyth, what a beauty!
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Member:
canter
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 7:30 pm:
JoAnn, can't offer any advice, but did want to extend my congratulations on your new mustang, and thanks for adopting one of the many that needs a home.
I wish you the best of luck with him, and please do post some pictures and keep us updated on your progress.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 8:47 pm:
Gwenyth, she is beautiful! Thank goodness she found you! I've ever been gratful I got Whiskey from the start. These horses are so sensitive and smart with so much to teach it is an honor to have them in our lives! Cindy
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 9:39 pm:
Thx. yeah she is something and just as pretty "inside" as she is "out" *GRIN* ... I agree, Cindy ... it IS an Honor to have them in our lives! Most definitely.
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Jul 29, 2008 - 11:36 pm:
Thanks to all that have posted. Today I let him have most of the day off until 4pm when I went out and hooked on a 8ft nylon lead line as he was feeling his way towards me - I was sitting in the middle with some "feed"and not sure of this attachment to a line. I've read where some leave it on all the time but I did not want to do that for all day so worked him a little in the round pen and then called it a day. He's certainly motivated by food but I do not want any hand feeding and I want some response or draw to me. I did a small amount of round pen work to draw him in and ended on a good note, took the line off and that was it. I have a great respect for this animal and the friends who are responding to the e mails. Thanks and keep all your comments and suggestions coming.
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Member:
hpyhaulr
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 8:12 am:
Joann,
What a beauty... what a joy. congratulations! Hope you have a long happy life together. Happy Trails indeed!
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 9:00 am:
Hey Joann. One of the "tools" I used with my girl was/is clicker training. Amazing! If food is a big motivator for your guy then both of you can have some really neat fun with it (clicker training). My girl would bite out of self-defense when she first came here and it was nasty. I used CT to teach her biting was not rewarding AND she now even gives "kisses" on the cheek. I use CT to teach very aggressive biters and yes, hand feed treat rewards to do this. This is also how I taught her that the halter was NOT an object of terror. I think if I didn't use CT we'd probably still not be able to get a halter on her! If anyone would like to know more, let me know. I don't want to go on and on about it here but can certainly post some links.
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Member:
dove2
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 9:25 am:
I must add that Clicker Training IS an amazing tool. When our mare needed to be stalled for months, clicker training made a world of difference and kept her bright, alert and motivated. When we got her, she had been overworked/abused, and in a lot of pain. Her revelation that she could show us how bright she was through clicker training, allowing her to communicate with us, created an amazing bond and she was thrilled to finally be understood!
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Member:
kshayden
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 10:08 am:
I would love to know more about clicker training - all you are up for sharing!!!
I learned 'a little' on dogs - I had a female years ago that refused the dumbbell. All my training friends methods of 'force' wouldn't work on her and I wasn't up for the harsh training SO, one day I was sitting on the end of my bed with her and the dumbbell and a clicker - in 5 minutes she was joyfully taking that dumbbell and judges remarked that she was the fastest they had seen on the retrieves  . My filly is like her - confident and strong - I had issues with pushiness and attitude so I tried the clicker and she loves it but I would like to expand. I really think it gives them an extra incentive to try and be successful.
Kathy
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Member:
lilo
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 10:55 am:
I also would love to learn more about clicker training. My problem was that I could not get my gelding to ignore the fact that I had treats (I put them in a strap-on pouch). I realize that the first thing I need to use the clicker for is to reward him when he stops mooching for treats - how long does that take????
Lilo
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 11:14 am:
Clicker is based on positive reinforcement. That is, one rewards the desired behavior while ignoring the unwanted behavior (to the extent that ignoring is safe. Otherwise negative reinforcement would be required, as well.) When trying to eradicate an unwanted behavior (such as mugging for the treats! *grin*) one simply ignores, as safely as possible, the "mugging" and asks for an alternative behavior (backing up 3 steps) and marks (clicks) and rewards (treat) that alternative behavior. The treat act as a motivator for repeat behavior (just like a paycheck works .. you wouldn't want to work for no paycheck, right?) ... CT is used in the venue of TEACHING a horse rather than "training" the horse. Each step is encouraged, marked and rewarded along the way ... and each step is taught independently, one from another, and then when all steps are learned they are chained together to form the larger picture very easily. One can't teach an animal NOT to do something but one CAN teach alternative or opposite behaviors that are more acceptable.
There is an online course, taught by Leslie Pavlich, author of "Clicker Training: Colt Starting the Natural Horse" coming up beginning August 7th. An introductory course the prefaces further, progressive studies. It is an EXCELLENT course, Leslie is a great teacher and explains things very clearly. Email to me privately, please, if you'd like more info on it. I highly recommend this class! I also recommend her book. You can learn about it here: https://www.clickhorse.info
Once again ... CT is an excellent, positive and safe way to work with all horses ... for all sorts of disciplines and lessons. It really clarifies to the horse precisely what it is you're asking him/her to do. It blends nicely with other "methods" of training and increases the learning curve exponentially!
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 11:17 am:
Lilo ... teaching a horse to not mug for treats can work in less than 10 mins., literally. But, once again, one must teach a replacement or alternative behavior. We can't tell the dog or horse "no" without teaching something else to do INSTEAD of the offending behavior. So, whatever you'd want to teach your horse to do INSTEAD of mugging will replace the mugging behavior as long as the incentive for the new behavior is stronger than the incentive for the mugging behavior (ie, mugging is ignored; replacement behavior is rewarded.)
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Member:
babychop
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 12:24 pm:
I imagine this wouldn't be a good idea for stud colts. I've been told NEVER to offer anything by hand as a stud colt will then expect a treat & if it's not offered, will bite.
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 12:32 pm:
Actually, it works just the same on colts as it does with any other horse. I've used it with all ages from just a couple of months to seniors ... CT teaches the horse that it must present a "good" behavior (human term rather than equine as all behaviors in equine terms are "good") in order to receive a treat.
BTW ... once a behavior is learned and conditioned the CT is eliminated for that behavior. One does not have to ALWAYS carry around a clicker and treats ... its a tool to clarify precisely what the human is asking the horse in terms that the horse can understand for the purpose of teaching or re-teaching.
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Member:
kshayden
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 12:45 pm:
I would imagine CT would be perfect for those little boys with 'tude'. I plan to use this for my little stud baby (now 2 months) as soon as I think he has something active under those lashes .
He started out being a little stinker - but he begs for activity (not necessarily attention) and when he misbehaves, I would over react and walk away - he figured out that since he wanted me to pay attention to him he had to act nice - I would assume this is the beginning of positive reinforcement.
Kathy
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Member:
babychop
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 1:42 pm:
Well Gwenyth, it may be something for me to look into as well then as my long yearling just took a nasty nip of my leg last night... Thanks for clearing that up!
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Member:
lilo
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 7:10 pm:
Gwenyth - thanks for your explanation. The video I watched about this a while ago did not suggest asking for another behaviour - the trainer just waited until the horse turned its head away - then clicked and treated. Asking for something else to reward makes more sense to me.
Lilo
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Member:
kshayden
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 8:17 pm:
Lilo,
If the horse is helping themselves (pushy) for treats - and you reward for NOT helping themselves (waiting) this IS the 'other' behavior - the right one .
Kathy
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Jul 30, 2008 - 8:17 pm:
Both methods can work, Lilo ... waiting and clicking is called shaping. There are times when we use that and its absolute positive reinforcement. When we ask, using pressure, then we're actually using negative reinforcement .. that is positive being ADDING something to the lesson that will increase a desired behavior and negative reinforcement being TAKING AWAY something adversive in order to increase a desired behavior. Make sense?
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Member:
marciaw
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Posted on Thursday, Jul 31, 2008 - 5:16 pm:
Hi Joann,
I have never had a mustang, but I've been around a few. I think you do need to be careful and feed for fit and lean. I also think it might behoove you to check out anything by Bryan Neubert. His work with Mustangs has been of great value to many. His CD, Wild Horse Handling can be found on his web site. He is a great resource! Wishing you all the best.
Marcia
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 2, 2008 - 3:31 pm:
Hi all and thanks for all responses. I have a clicker and "may" try this but we are only one week here at my home. We think his name is going to be Koda which is Sioux for friend. Naming horse is not easy. He now halters easy enough and lead lessons are going well. I'm working on his body in letting us touch him more and more. I'm going to have to start a tying lesson soon and getting around his feet. This guy is so submissive and so curious greeting anyone who walks up to a rail. I hope I should feel good about that. Please all keep advice coming my way as while I've been around horses for years, I have never trained. Going by a pretty good book but it jumps around a little - he's no foal. Thanks for all advice.
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Member:
lilo
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 2, 2008 - 4:01 pm:
Gwenyth - yes, I guess it makes sense. And I am guessing it depends on the horse which method works better. Lilo
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 2, 2008 - 4:02 pm:
JoAnn, you will have a wonderful time teaching each other and learning a great deal. If you don't know Dennis Reis and Mark Rashid they are both excellent trainers when it comes to mustangs. We have our own HA Cowboy in Dennis Taylor who is as good as they come and will always help ! Koda is a good name for a wild one Cindy
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Member:
erika
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 2, 2008 - 11:09 pm:
Speaking of Dennis, where is he these days?
Gwenyth, your mustang is gorgeous! Very evident of the Spanish blood, no?
Clicker training is something I wish I knew how to use. Anyone want to come and give me a lesson?
Good luck with your youngster, Joann.
Erika
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Member:
dtranch
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Posted on Sunday, Aug 3, 2008 - 9:21 am:
Joann .. congrats, and thanks for caring about the mustangs.
My goal is to build a bond of trust and respect, and no one will respect you if they can't trust you. It is the same for the horse, and especially critical for the mustang or abused horse.
Start slowly, just getting to know the horse and letting the horse learn that being around you is a great place to be. He must feel safe, and have the option to flee if he doesn't feel safe. Never try to force anything ... help the horse figure it out and come to it. I never take his ability to escape away from him, I just try to encourage him and help him decide he doesn't need to. I start with just lots of bonding .. rubbing and stroking especially around the eyes and forhead and between the ears. Find the spots he likes, and watch him melt as you bond with him.
Once you feel he is starting to trust you and like being with you, begin to ask for "little" responses. Try some pressure and release just by simply lightly pulling down on rope and immediately release with the slightest try. Don't expect to move mountains, just look for little changes and reward with lavish praise. Next, you can start asking him to move his feet, and work on responding to pressure. This is the beginning of the "respect" part. Remember, the horse learns from the "release" of the pressure, not the application of pressure. Anticipate the slightest try and reward immediately. We want to help him become as soft and responsive as possible.
Remember, this is accomplished in lots of small stages, and he may go backwards from time to time. Learn to ignore those minor slips. Don't pick a fight and make it a big issue. Just go back until you can get a good response, and reward for that. Be firm enough to be safe, but not so firm as to intimidate or try to force a response.
Finally, try not to think of your goal as the finished horse ... make each little success your goal of the moment, and keep adding to it.
Good luck and keep us posted.
DT
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Monday, Aug 4, 2008 - 4:31 pm:
hi all and thank you Dennis for a lovely insight into my training of this young guy. It is going well and I read alot on our site - especially about you Dennis. Good stuff. We now have settled on the name Koda which means friend in the Sioux language. He is leading okay and I am pushing him to move up next to me - he'll do it soon I'm sure. Yesterday I worked two hours with him and he did not like the rope halter so I went back to nylon but may try both on him (suggestions)? I was able to pick up both front feet - working each side equally with rubs, pets and praise. While he won't hold the foot up long it was a pleasant surprise for me. My problem is this: We want to move him from the round pen into a corral with a waterer, feeder, and shelter five foot rails. I'm thinking by Wednesday. I have two mares and a donkey with complete freedom of the place. They meet and greet every day but after reading the posts, I do not want a blow up for Koda or me. Maybe I can introduce my donkey first (suggestions)? I'm also thinking that I may have an issue on the leading out to the new digs. I've loose lunged for ten minutes both ways and he joins up "ok" and has some fears of my lunge line. I want to put the lunge on him but will not overwork his body at this time. Okay, still looking for anything anyone wants to tell me. Now that I'm retired (yeah) I have the time and loving my Mustang Challenge.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Tuesday, Aug 5, 2008 - 11:14 am:
joann, can you bring the donkey to Koda?? Cindy
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Member:
terrido
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Posted on Tuesday, Aug 5, 2008 - 1:31 pm:
Joann,
TBH I have not read this entire thread, so if I repeat what others have said, I apologize.
First take the time to form a bond, this means no 'work', no round pen, no longe line, no halter, etc, time to be with him, time to hang out.
I am sure the reaction to the rope halter is because the are harsh when they need to be, but in the wrong hands can be harsh all the time. No offense meant here, ok? A rope halter alone should not pose any adverse reaction. But will give you control when/if you need it, unlike the usual style.
As for moving him, yes introduce in small stages, but eventually they will need to work things out on their own anyway. And yes since you don't have a relationship rely yet this may well set things back a bit, maybe even quite a bit. But if this is to be his new home, I say do what you need to do and let it take its course. The more open space he has the safer he will feel.
If you really want to develop a strong bond with him, email me privately: terrie.douglas@sun.com
Best of luck!
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Aug 5, 2008 - 1:35 pm:
Hi, thanks Cindy for a reply. Koda is in a 70 foot round pen and the two mares and Riley (donkey) are able to sniff and get close. Koda has his head stuck out of the rails often enough and I saw my oldest mare go after him when we were feeding. The next challenge is to move him from the rd pen to his new corral which I am working on his leading better - its not quite there yet. Riley is over 30 y.o we think and not aggressive - more curious. I could lead him into the round pen and between my husband and I do an intro via halters and leads. Let me know what you think and thanks
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Aug 5, 2008 - 3:15 pm:
Thanks Cindy and Terry. Update
I just gave him a one hour lesson (repeating the same things i.e. halter on/off withleading, body rubs, picking up feet, some pressure moves with the tt method. I think he is bored and desires company so I took the plunge and brought Riley into the pen. They both did nothing and are eating side by side out of the same feeder. The one thing I can say for sure is they (horses) have excellent memories but short attention, hence why I leave my trainings short. We are both in there alot with him and he loves the attention and rubs so he gets good quality time. Terri I may just send a private e mail for additional info.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Tuesday, Aug 5, 2008 - 7:39 pm:
joann, sounds like it went fine. When we got Whiskey my girlfriend got Hiram Walker(burro) and Hiram was a great help with Whiskey altho he loved to come up behind you and lay his head on your shoulder/back whenever! Mustangs like interaction almost as much as arabs and it sounds like you are working hard to make that happen. Ain't it FUN! Cindy
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Member:
amara
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 6, 2008 - 9:13 am:
Related to Mustangs but O/T as far as this thread is concerned (sorry Joann), but I have a question for those of you who have adopted mustangs from the BLM, namely, the fence height requirements.
The property I bought is fenced on the outside with T-posts and mesh fence, but only about 4- 4 1/2 ft high. the dry lot I did myself, and i can get that fencing about 5 ft high, but its also T-posts and mesh. The round pen is 5 1/2 ft tall and with an extra panel can connect it directly to the dry lot. I dont have caps on the T-posts, but I can easily do that. I have read where they say want T-posts, but then in other areas they dont say anything at all about T-posts being unacceptable.
With your experience with the BLM, can I make this work?
Sorry for taking over your thread Joann. P.S. your mustang sounds great! Good luck
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 6, 2008 - 9:51 am:
Ummmmm, if you're adopting a *wild* one then you need sturdy POSTS and WOOD fencing, 5' high for mares and foals; 6' high for stallions. T-posts and wire mesh is not acceptable and is only asking for disaster.
Please, if you're seriously considering adopting a wild mustang -- contact the WILD MENTORS listed on
https://www.kbrhorse.net
They will talk with you, mentor you and help you through this. Adopting and caring for a wild mustang is NOT like adopting and caring for an ungentled domestic horse. The Mustang "spirit" is even not the same as a domestic.
Find out ALL YOU CAN before adopting!!! About caring for them, feeding them, housing requirements, FENCING requirements and just how to teach them to live with humans.
-- Gwen <><
PENZANCE Equine Solutions
https://www.thepenzancehorse.com
https://www.barefoottrim.com
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 6, 2008 - 9:57 am:
Hi Melissa:The requirements are strict but then I don't think very well enforced except that they have volunteers and employees that will come out and inspect your property with notice. I was told that I could not have a 3y.o because my fence heights were not 6ft. The requirement was not about the whole property but the holding area or corral where I would place my horse. My round pen is 51/2 feet and the corral the same. I do not have t posts and I don't think that's on the list; BLM wants rail or good solid fencing. You can call them up. I did and a very nice lady called me back and answered all my questions. I also wanted to know about the prison trained horses and if you are in Reno area that is going to be next week (i believe). I'm on 5 acres and it is sectioned off. I also have a barn which they liked (stalls) are okay. They have rules that i followed like taking the partitions out of my 3h slant stock trailer and proper halter and lead lines. Then I get there and other buyers did not follow the instructions. I guess BLM is just glad to get rid of horses and despite the current situation, I'm happy I made the choice to get a Mustang(?). You can also visit Ridgecrest directly if you are in California its overwhelming but the facility is well maintained.
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Member:
caballus
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 6, 2008 - 10:19 am:
here's another link (KBR Help Section)
https://www.whmentors.org/men/help.html
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 6, 2008 - 11:26 am:
Melissa, The reason for the fence height is if wild, they want to stay that way and can jump, climb or scramble their way to freedom. There is a small herd of escaped mustangs near here because once they are out they are gone. T posts w/o caps are spears stuck in the ground! We had a very good BLM rep in this area for years and she did check several times thru the year but think that is an exception. KBR site is wonderful also look up Kitty Lauman and Ranger wonderful videos.
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Member:
amara
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Posted on Wednesday, Aug 6, 2008 - 4:17 pm:
Thanks for the info on the fencing guys. I would not be doing this till sometime next year anyway, so that gives me some time to make changes.
Thanks!
Mel
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 9, 2008 - 12:26 am:
Just an update on my guy Koda. He's an amazing learner and I am floored at his progress and we let him out with our two mares today and he is sticking close by me instead of them. The bossy mare gave him the look and I think he understands. My middle girl has no problems with him and our donkey is at the bottom of the pile. I'm giving him freedom under control and in the evening placing him in his own corral for feeding. He's exploring his home but so far I have seen nothing agressive or even playful from him. Something tells me he was handled "more" at the BLM facility then what I thought and since there is no way to know, I'd say right now I'm lucky and hope it holds. At this time I just mix up the training and free time. He leads, picks up his feet, flexes at the poll and laterals, backs and lets us freely touch him. I want to start the tying process and have read up here and there - any other suggestions please bring them here. As far as lunging he knows the direction cues on the free end but on the line he gives me resistance. The "go forward" cue with my sticks is not sinking in so more work needed there. He loves water (TG). j
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 9, 2008 - 6:48 pm:
Water was a "treat" I used with Whiskey he LOVES to splash and be splashed so I'd stand by the water trough and play! It sounds so great JoAnn I wish more people would think of having a mustang in their lives! Whiskey came right from th range and was a friend inside a month but it was 2 more years before we rode out because of his age.He was just shy of 2 yrs. or so when we got him!He fell in love with my arab mare but it was not returned for many a year she has just now relented and lets him groom her. Keep us posted and which herd area is Koda from? Cindy
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Member:
mitma
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Posted on Sunday, Aug 10, 2008 - 1:16 am:
Joann,
Congratulations!!! You are doing an awesome thing!
Ditto to what everyone else has said... and though I am coming to this thread rather late, I will put my 2 cents in too!
A few months ago, I just got my BLM "papers", i.e., certificate of ownership, for my rising 4 yo mustang mare, Riley (funny that your donkey has the same name)...
Riley was my "return" journey back into the world of horses (after a 25+ year absence)... and I now have TEN, though she is my only mustang. I made SO MANY MISTAKES, and, unfortunately, we are still paying for so many of them... already from your posts, it sounds like things are going pretty well for you and your mustang... part of the issue with my mare was that I got her as a 2 yo, but later found out that she had been previously adopted out as a yearling, STARVED, voluntarily relinquished back to the BLM, held in holding for a few more months, then transported from Nebraska to Virginia, and, finally, adopted by me! Truly, my mare had some issues way beyond the "normal" wild horse "mentality"... but, despite our inconsistent and, at times, rocky course, we have progressed and she has taught me so much (my other horses have really benefited)... one thing I figured out a bit too late, was that my mare's instinct to belong to a herd, was incredibly strong, and I really believe that I turned her out with other horses prematurely... prior to her being out with the rest of the herd, she was in a small paddock (25' x 40') with 6 ft high board and rail fencing and with access to a 12' x 12' stall (all consistent with BLM requirements) and she could "visit" other horses through the fence. Now, again, it sounds like your gelding is doing well so far, especially, if he has voluntarily chosen to return to you and be away from the other horses... unfortunately, with my mare, I had not established enough of a strong bond prior to allowing her to join the herd, so for her, especially after her traumatic first year with a neglectful human, it was an easy decision for her to "join up" with a herd of her own kind and then completely ignore and evade me for several weeks! I have also found that Riley has some real phobias, and I can only surmise that they arise, in part, from previous MIS-handling from the person who starved her... I plan on throwing a party when the day comes that I can use fly spray with NO reaction from her!
Anyway, I don't mean to be negative... the fact is that I don't regret for a minute adopting my beautiful mare... it's just going to be a life long work in progress... and she has a safe, secure, forever home with me, and I continue to be a better horse person for my experiences with her.
After some of my initial big mistakes, I started looking for help... Dennis Taylor will be a great resource for you... he is actually a certified Frank Bell trainer... and FRANK BELL is definitely the most awesome natural horsemanship trainer (yes, there are many good ones, but with Frank, it is really about the horses! I've been to one of his clinics and his commitment to horses is so incredibly apparent... I also got to meet Dennis and Dove2 there!) Check out his website at www.horsewhisperer.com and you can look at his info on working with wild horses... Also, the first step he does with any horse is BONDING!!! It can NOT be emphasized enough!
So, good luck to you and please keep us posted... I will probably adopt another mustang in the future, but with ten horses, I do have my hands full, and they clearly don't get the most they should with regard to "training"... I will eventually try to "rehome" some of my successful rescues, then I will have room for more...
Martha
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Friday, Aug 15, 2008 - 6:25 pm:
Hi all don't mean to bore everyone with my challenge but it is going so well with Koda that we are both bored with the repetition. I've written everything down and go over the basics alot. I am now thinking of tying him to learn that standing still is a good thing. I bought a 6x6 by 8 ft. beam that we put in the ground with a loose ring bolt (12") placed about 10" down from the top. It is not in the ground yet. I have a barn with a two ring cross tie set up already but we are not there. I want this to be a good experience so looking for suggestions. I read what I could but(?) did not find anything special. So if anyone has special thoughts bring them on. He now accepts a fly mask and is getting down his name. He loves my Arab mare but still runs to me so I still feel like the boss. Thanks. j
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Member:
erika
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Posted on Friday, Aug 15, 2008 - 6:38 pm:
Congratulations on things going so well, Joann. Having grown up ranching, I'm sure you are well versed in the "don't tie to anything that will come loose" logic. Make sure your ring is high enough above the withers so he can't flip, and make sure it is SOLID!
The only tie accidents where I've seen injury have been because something wasn't strong enough to hold the horse.
I wouldn't attempt the cross-ties until he is a good citizen on the tie.
Good luck!
Erika
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Member:
terrido
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Posted on Friday, Aug 15, 2008 - 7:00 pm:
OK, so I am by no means an expert at this stuff. Personally I don't like just tying up a horse for hours on end. I don't however use them on ranches! Yes there is a 'place' for tying a horse. And I do tie my mare to the trailer when we are out, not for many hours at a stretch, but still, yes I expect her to remain tied and quietly standing.
OK, so my question to you is will he just stand (at liberty) for as long as you ask him to simply stand? I would get this first before asking him to stand while tied.
My mare hadn't ever been tied to anything for any length of time prior to coming to me. But I think our normal FT work has helped her figure out that if I ask her to do something, it's ok. I knew the first time I tied her to the trailer and walked away that she would simply stand, munch on her hay, and wait for me to come back. It's exactly what she did. Course that was a year after I'd gotten her. I wasn't sure what she'd do, we hadn't been "out" before after all, and I'd never just tied her and left her (out of her sight) for any length of time either.
if this were my baby, I would get a stand at liberty for as long as I say to stand, then I would tie a hay net up on the post that will be used for this tying exercise, and 'tie' him to it, asking him to stand, allowing him to munch away. I use quotes for a reason, cause the first time or so I wouldn't actually "tie" the rope, I'd run it through the ring, maybe loop it one time in the ring so if he does pull back sharply it'll come right off. And of course plenty of slack in the rope! I'd also begin in tiny increments, to begin with I'd then really tie him for only a couple/few minutes, standing within sight, then release him. Building up the length of time, and my distance, he is tied there over time, until being able to tie him and walk away for as long as I choose. No stress, no anxiety, no big deal.
Course when I first taught my little mare to stand when I asked her for as long as I asked, I inadvertantly once walked her to the hitch rail, let the lead rope dangle on the ground, asked her to stand as usual, groomed her. And then I had to go potty - badly. So, being the good Mom I am, I simply said 'stand' and I left to go potty. I was gone maybe 5 minutes, that's plenty long enough for anything to happen. As I walked back to her she was still just standing there, and that's when I noticed I hadn't even tied her to the rail! She was just "ground tied", but she had stayed right there waiting. hahaha Course I was not pleased with myself, it was a boarding place afterall, and she should have been tied. I wasn't in the habit of ever leaving her tied up and alone, unsupervised, though either before that day for any length of time. But the standing there being tied for grooming was a normal routine too.
Again, this is just me. Good luck!
-Terrie
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Member:
juliem
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Posted on Friday, Aug 15, 2008 - 11:36 pm:
Don't tie him at all until he TOTALLY understands giving to pressure and knowing how to find instant relief from the pressure of the halter on his poll. If he really has that down pat, tying should be a non event. It's pretty old school to just tie one up and let them fight it out. Results in lots of issues down the road. I know some people who do that as a first step to halter breaking and in my opinion, they have it backwards. That is of course only my opinion!
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Saturday, Aug 16, 2008 - 11:35 am:
Amen to all of the don't tie him for long IF at all! I love Terrie's approach. One side effect from tying mustangs for long is they will dig to China out of boredom and that you do not want to get started!Bring stuff/games into the picture they LOVE games! Doing good keep it up! Cindy
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 - 12:12 am:
I'm getting back to posting and thought I'd update my progress with Koda my 20 month BLM. He has settled in with all and loves to eat. My training schedules is every other day and my only concern is how much he free lopes around the round pen as I work on our join up. Am I overdoing something that could hurt his future (legs)? He had a trim and that went ok and we work every day on his feet, flymask, sprays and head down cues all of which he has no problems. I've yet to tie him off to anything but at the rail he's calm. I've also desensitized with pinching and rubbing ears, mouth and had a snaffle bit in an out of his mouth 50 times - just loose.
He's "getting" the move over cues but not the go forward off the shoulders. Any suggestions? He backs okay and his whoa is okay. I want to move forward so looking for other training suggestions remembering that I'm the novice trainer here. Thanks all
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Tuesday, Sep 30, 2008 - 12:59 pm:
joann, Whiskey could go all day and all night and hardly break a sweat. Dennis Reis works with mustangs better than most and has always said if you had to flee for your life ride a mustang! They have their own lope/gait that is wonderful to ride and designed by nature to cover a lot of miles per day!
Glad to hear he is going well, Whiskey LOVES raisin muffins!
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Friday, Oct 17, 2008 - 9:22 pm:
Hi, I want to ask other mustang owners and or Dennis the trainer about how to get a better "move foward to the right" with my Koda. He's now in a mild snaffle and I will soon be working a saddle into the pic. He's very very smart and calm but does not like to go to the right. He pivots on his fronts, moves his rear over; leads both sides, Flexes in all directions. Doesn't mind touching etc or foot work. He's very cute and willing. I do not want to be frustrated with this "right" side thing looking for a tip.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Saturday, Oct 18, 2008 - 5:19 pm:
Will he turn right and stand?? and then move off? Purhaps if he will turn right and stop, wait and then go forward? Sorry old brain just trying to get picture.
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Sunday, Oct 19, 2008 - 9:31 pm:
Cindy: Thanks for answering. Its the go forward command going right that he is having difficulty with. He throws his head and turns into me. Going left is good and he will walk several circles from 8-10ft out. I reposition and start over mannnnnny times but he hates the going right. I stand at his shoulder or girth, with my hand on his lead and my short whip to begin tapping and of course when he takes a step I stop. He walks a few then turns. Maybe its just a time in thing. Hope this helped.
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Monday, Oct 20, 2008 - 11:50 am:
Whiskey had a go forward anywhere problem. He just locked up and stood like a rock! You could tap tap harder and harder and he still stood. Finally used a beer can with bells in it and that got him going ?? If this is not a sight problem finding right motivational item can be a test!? Whiskey is now very good but he had other mustang quirks that croup up along the way.They are a challenge to us to think out side the box!
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 - 6:44 pm:
HI ALL; Been a while and thought I'd give an update on Koda, now a full two y.o. He has been under saddle and fitted with a full cheek snaffle. Doesn't seem to mind this and it all came very easy to him. I think I have a basic lacy mustang. He loads, and ties but I'm still afraid to leave him alone. He is very curious and follows me everywhere so "my space" isn't always mine. I believe he knows verbals,wtc..and his whoa is just ok. He does good laterals and head downs; picks his feet up; allows all over body massage and head work. I have been on him 3x's but he's not moving off the leg. He follows my husband with me on him. So looking for some suggestions on riding. He knows the whip is okay but i'm not interested in using it or spurs. help
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Member:
hollyw
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Posted on Tuesday, Jan 13, 2009 - 8:46 pm:
Joann, in reading back over your posts, I see that moving forward has been a problem for Koda for quite awhile.
The ability for him to move forward on cue is vital, so if he still doesn't do it well on the ground, I would reinforce it on the ground, first. When on top, it may help for your husband to use his body language to get Koda moving forward while you cue him, too. Whenever you feel him start thinking of moving forward, cue him for it. Are you doing lots of lateral gives with him from the ground and on top? These are critical as well, not only for your safety but to help him with vertical gives which will help him to back up and whoa.
I will e-mail you with more info at your personal address, too.
Take care and be safe.
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Member:
stek
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Posted on Wednesday, Jan 14, 2009 - 4:46 pm:
Joann, congrats on your first rides, aren't they thrilling!
IMO the whoa is the most important gait when starting a horse under saddle .. I would put more time into it on the ground for safety's sake, though if you have someone else to spot you and are in a controlled environment I would keep going with brief rides too. The key is repetition, repetition, repetition. Also remember that whoa means all 4 feet come to an immediate halt, it doesn't mean slow down gradually. Being clear and firm in your cues helps your horse know what you want.
I expect it will take quite a few more rides before you get your horse nicely moving off your legs and wouldn't expect too much too fast. As Holly mentioned above lateral giving starts on the ground too. I use as much pressure as necessary at the same spot I will use my leg till they give and move over, together with the verbal 'Over'. Repeat till you get a nice step over with a light touch. Once I know a horse is comfortable with me on him (I don't usually trust them till after the first fight!) I starting asking them to yield laterally to my leg. Start with a ground refresher, then climb on, lay my leg on with the verbal 'over'. Reward the slightest try, but if you get no response hop back off and do it from the ground again. Lather, rinse, repeat till they get it.
Again I wouldn't expect this of a horse that had only been backed a few times. I look for a confident whoa, walk and trot under saddle to get the stickies out before I start asking for movement off my legs laterally. It takes a good amount of time for a young horse to get confident and balanced under saddle.
Good luck with your new riding horse!
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Member:
hollyw
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Posted on Wednesday, Jan 14, 2009 - 6:01 pm:
I wasn't very clear in my meaning of "lateral" above. Just to clarify what I meant by getting him to move laterally . . . I meant off the rein, although getting him to move his haunches over combined with a lateral give to the rein is the essential "one rein stop."
Do you have Koda moving forward well from your body language and/or forward cues on the ground? If not, that is essential before climbing in the saddle. He has to know that you can move him.
I have a couple of horses that are not very "forward," and though you said above that you didn't want to use a crop or spurs, a crop might be in order if Koda consistently balks and won't move forward even with someone asking him from the ground (with body language) as you are on top. If you are secure that the steering and whoa are there, and if your balance is good, and if Koda continues to be balky, then use a progression of forward cues (verbal, then verbal+leg+seat, then verbal+leg+seat+a STRONG swat with the crop . . . let him go for several yards, WHOA, then repeat the progression . . . some folks don't like to use verbal cues from the saddle). You should only have to use the crop STRONGLY a couple of times before Koda will move off the lighter cues.
It's the most humane way to teach a balky horse because it's a language horses understand: the increase in the intensity of the cues. Horses do it to one another in the herd, too . . . they hint, they tell, and then they YELL! Pretty soon, the dominant horse only has to hint to get a response.
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Member:
erika
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Posted on Wednesday, Jan 14, 2009 - 6:31 pm:
I agree, Holly, I have seen situations like this where a balky horse can quickly progress to rearing, etc. when refusing to move forward.
In my opinion, I don't think he is ready to be ridden if you don't have his forward cue down pat from the ground. Go back to moving him out with a particular word or sound until he goes without reinforcement. Then use the same word or sound with your leg from the saddle.
He sounds like a very smart horse, and sometimes that can tempt us to give them too much work that they aren't ready for. He's just barely two. Very young still. Remember I was told by many of our resident experts not to expect too much from my five year old!
If you come to an impass, maybe just lay off of it for a while, or go back to something he does well that he enjoys. Later you may be surprised that he picks it right up willingly.
My point is, don't fight with him at his tender age. He may be just trying to tell you that riding is too much for him with all that is new in his short life. Good luck and stay safe!
Erika
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Member:
ajudson1
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 7:59 am:
What exactly is a "full 2 year old?"
I sorry if this sounds harsh, but why are you even concerned about riding a 2 year old? He sounds like a smart, inquisive, & sweet young horse who trusts you completely at this point. You can continue to do so much with him from the ground; why the hurry to start riding? If you are going to be resorting to smacking him with a crop while mounted, I think it's time to back up, and back off!
And I do agree with the asking, asking in a firmer way, followed by the smack, but on a 2 year old? Uh uh.
If he were my horse, I'd spend at least another 6 months doing all kinds of ground work. Make it interesting and fun for him! Ground driving, introducing him to all kinds of "monsters" walks, going over things, all while saddled, and reinforcing your cues, verbal and otherwise, will make your first ride a piece of cake! To his mind, you'll just go from being on the ground, to being above him, and everything should fall in place.
As Erika said; Don't fight him at this tender age!
Just my opinion of course.
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Member:
hollyw
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 8:32 am:
Actually, Erika's post yesterday was like a splash of cold water on me. I had completely zoned out on the Mustang's age . . . and got lost in the training techniques.
So, Angie, your post, is a good "wake-up," too . . . and, yes, you do sound a bit harsh . . . lol . . . but we'll chalk (or chock?) it up to all that bitter COLD you are dealing with in the U.P. . . . lol . . . getting your ire up will serve to keep you warm!
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Member:
ajudson1
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 9:08 am:
I am sorry, I didn't mean to sound harsh. But I wanted to say that, because I wanted to make my point, but not sound like I was attacking or being critical. I have a tendency to try to look at things from the horses point of view, and I do know the HA members all have their horses best interests in mind!
I also know we can get stuck on something, and need another perspective at times.
Joann, I didn't mean to suggest you are riding the heck out of this youngster, or planning on doing so. I've sat on mine at age 2 also, just to get them used to me, and some light walking. Now I am babbling and worried I came across wrong...geesh!
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Member:
hollyw
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 10:14 am:
LOLOLOL . . . Angie . . .
I don't think there are any of us here who wouldn't want to see things from the horse's point of view . . . that's why Erika's and your posts were good for me. I had forgotten the horse was just a baby . . .
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Member:
stek
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 11:11 am:
Joann, as Angie and Holly state above you are right to not to want to use a crop or spurs at this point. This guy is just a baby and there is no reason at all to rush things. You have YEARS to sort it all out!
I have started many colts under saddle at two (though I prefer to wait a little longer) and IMHO the most important thing at that point is for them to enjoy their work. Keep the list of things that you are asking of them short so they can succeed each time. I expect my young horses to meet me at the gate, excited for their lesson and the special attention they receive.
It's easy to build on their skill set, but very hard to bring back a horse that has been soured.
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Member:
stek
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 11:29 am:
One more thing .. (why do I always post before I am finished with my thoughts??)
Most horses will be 'balky' the first few times they are ridden. This is not true balking but just them showing you that they are not sure what the heck is going on, and if it's OK to move forward. This happens not only at the walk, but the first few times you trot and canter as well. It's a really different new feeling for them. Be patient and give them time to get used to the idea before you start demanding. This is expected behavior at this point in his training.
At the very beginning you can have someone lead you on the horse till he gets used to the feel. Don't become over-dependant on it though or you will just have to work with the same problem once your helper is out of the picture. I don't usually do it more than once, or twice for the really sticky ones.
Also Erika is right .. don't pick a fight with him. He will do lots of things wrong before all is said and done, but being a baby most of what he does wrong will be a mistake or confusion, not willful orneriness.
Good luck!
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Member:
zarr
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 12:01 pm:
Joann, don't mean to promote one trainer's idea above another but check out the concept of right brain versus left brain horse. My mustang is so right brained he almost falls over .The solution to working with each is fascinating and so right on but complete opposite of each other.
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 12:08 pm:
Wow, thanks everyone and yes I winced at Angie's comments but then there is alot more to tell. Koda is a full two by BLM standards - just like TB they all have a Jan lst BD. So, if he was 18 mo. in July 08 he's a 2 y.o now. But I think he's a little older and so does my shoer. We will never know the exact BD. He is so mellow and lazy and when I say started under saddle it is strictly in the roundpen. I work everyday on lateral bends, bridling, and saddling him. I've depspooked with plastic (that was not fun), barrels, ropes all over him and his head, dogs, and if he has one distraction it is his two old mare herdmates looking at him saying ha ha you have to work. I'm trying my best to be there everyday for him even if its just a halter session and walking around or lunging. I'm sorry if I wasn't real clear that I don't think I'm rushing him and think the exercise is really minimal - no heavy running. He has a lovely jog and looks like his trot will be comfortable. Yesterday I worked a Lyons session of laterals then sat on him doing the same and my husband led him around with the halter lead and I used the bridle and reins (fc snaffle) to work Whoa and Back. He's smart and I am so far very lucky. Thank you all for the feedback.
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 12:12 pm:
Sorry, p.s. anyone going up to Equine Affair in Pomona, ca? My riding friend and I will be there Fri/Sat to catch the sessions and shop. Also, I bought on Ebay a comple 22 disc set of Chris Cox training and can't wait for that. And Angie, I'm not mad. J
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Member:
ajudson1
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 2:51 pm:
Ah great, glad we got that cleared up! I should have stopped typing after my first question regarding his age!
Now I'd suggest being more aggressive with your asking for forward movement, but I'd still make sure it's done from the ground. Walk means MOVE NOW, and TROT means jump right into the trot, etc. I only say from the ground for the safety factor, you can stand a looong ways away from those hind hoofs when asking for forward movement with a rope or whip! If he gets over being lazy from the ground, I don't think it would take much to get that transferred to mounted work.
And it's not that cold up here, schools shut down today because the weather said minus 35 with windchill, heck, it's sunny and above zero! No wind hardly at all. But I am just getting over a cold, as in the virus, so I'll use that as an excuse, K? 
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Member:
stek
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 15, 2009 - 3:28 pm:
Just two more of my cents .. I started a young mustang under saddle a few years back who was pretty solid on his groundwork but very slow to move forward under saddle (maybe not quite the situation you are describing Joann). Anyway I backed him a couple times only getting a couple hesitant steps out each time.
Finally got after him a wee bit and boy did the dam break! He galloped hard, flat out, for what felt like a half hour. There was absolutely no physical way I could get his head around to stop him, he was just locked up in total panic mode. Luckily we were in a roundpen and I was able to just ride it out till he slowed down and stopped. I tried walking him out again (perfect time, right?) And he exploded on me again, more panic galloping. The next time he stopped I bailed for fear of him giving himself a heart attack. He did eventually get over it and went on to become a good little horse.
Joann I am not trying to scare you, just a reminder to be as safe as you can. This happened back in my younger and stupider days when I never wore a helmet, I hope you are smarter than me!!
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Wednesday, Jan 21, 2009 - 10:58 pm:
Sorry I did not continue out of town for a few days. Shannon thanks i like what you said and that is my horse to the "t". He did the freak out thing already and I too rode it out. He only went half the rp and then charged the rail. I got off and tripped myself bailing and he ran off then turned and looked at me. I got back on but did not push his buttons. I've decided that a small lesson done frequently is better so its always the routine; halter and tie (using blocker); clean feet and bod, saddle, bridle, free lunge for at least 20min. then start getting on and off (using a bale of straw)and having my husband always there. Today after being off for five days he did everything I've taught and with me on his back, followed my husband but I was on alert watching his head and attitude. We are going to be in this mode for awhile. p.s. looking for mane taming I do not have a hoodie - suggestions please.
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Member:
stek
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Posted on Thursday, Jan 22, 2009 - 2:37 pm:
That's good Joann, stay safe and remember patience is a virtue and festina lente (make haste slowly)
Are you trying to get his mane all over to one side? Braids can really help if he doesn't have a pasture mate that will chew them off.
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Member:
cgby1
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Posted on Wednesday, Jan 28, 2009 - 10:56 pm:
I have used those little rubber bands to train my horses manes. I do a row about an inch down, then split each in half and band two halves together. Then I do it again for a third row. It's the style used by the long maned breeds for shows and after a few days the mane should lay flat. If he rubs it the rubber bands should break before he breaks off his mane.
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Friday, Feb 20, 2009 - 10:49 am:
Hi all: Update on Koda its going good but with the rain here in Socal there has been a big time lapse in training. Mud still lingers. However, started back in on training yesterday and he has two new moves, rearing up while taking short walks under lead and mouthing things, i.e. lead line, handles, saddle, etc. I'm more concerned with the rearing but looking for suggestions or point to right area at this web. I've taken a step back here and I don't want to "hit" on him unless he goes after me. Thanks Joann
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Friday, Feb 20, 2009 - 12:33 pm:
Sorry to repost. I have been all a.m. checking back on past posts so unless someone has more info, ignore my first post. Thanks. There's alot of info j
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Member:
stek
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Posted on Friday, Feb 20, 2009 - 6:06 pm:
Joann all I would add to the other info on the site would be, for your specific situation, if your colt has had some time off it is normal for him to re-test the boundaries of what's appropriate as you get back to work. Be fair, firm and patient with him and I'm sure you'll get him back in order in no time. Remember to have only one set of rules for ground manners, and stick to them like glue.
Good luck and keep us posted on your progress!
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Monday, Mar 9, 2009 - 8:32 pm:
Hi, progress report on Koda. He's doing really well and his lump (fallen thyroid) seems to have gone away. He's loading in the trailer and finally backing out fairly well. And he is finally going forward and I'm sure it was the trainer the whole time - me being out of position. It is hard to stay in the different zones. I just really work on ground work and leading but the other day I took him for a walk outside his world and he had a panic attack and I let him go so he could get to his comfort. Tried to pony him but had trouble getting him to move. He is bored so looking for new things, games, anything to keep him busy and learning. Joann
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Moderator:
DrO
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Posted on Tuesday, Mar 10, 2009 - 7:47 am:
Of course the thyroid does not go away bringing the diagnosis in question it can be repositioned on top of the trachea but it is just a matter of time before it falls again.
DrO
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Member:
joann
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Posted on Tuesday, Mar 10, 2009 - 12:17 pm:
Thanks Dr. O I will keep an eye on this. j
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