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Discussion on Can dressage saddles restrict shoulder freedom in some horses? | |
Author | Message |
Member: frances |
Posted on Monday, May 2, 2011 - 5:50 am: I'm looking for a new, lighter dressage saddle for my now quite elderly TB, and the saddle fitter said she thought the straight flap of a dressage saddle was restrictive for my mare's shoulder, and that a GP would be better.A second saddle fitter I asked felt quite the opposite to be true. I'm very reluctant to change to a GP on a whim, but of course will do so in a flash if it really is better for my horse. Any thoughts? I take great care not to position my dressage saddle too far forward (or back), and I really can't see how there can possibly be any restriction. |
Member: canderso |
Posted on Monday, May 2, 2011 - 2:39 pm: Hiya,I would sort of agree, but also disagree with your saddle fitter - all you have to do is look at dressage horses doing extended gaits to know a dressage saddle doesn't necessarily restrict shoulder movement. With that being said, my (limited) experience has been ANY type of saddle, if improperly fitted, can restrict shoulder movement. |
Member: canter |
Posted on Monday, May 2, 2011 - 4:19 pm: Hi LL,I think Cheryl nailed it. A properly fitted dressage saddle will free up not only the shoulder but will help the horse move freely overall. I can't imagine that's not true of any type of saddle. You mentioned looking for a lighter saddle - have you checked into the Wintec dressage saddles? I think it was the Wintec Isabella that I used to own - purchased for the TB I owned at the time, although I will add that he was not built like a typical TB, but was of a stockier type. |
Member: frances |
Posted on Tuesday, May 3, 2011 - 12:21 am: Thanks Cheryl and Fran. That's exactly what I think - dressage horses in particular need to extend.I've been looking for a Wintec but the only tack shop here that carries the range has stopped doing so. They have one left - a Wintec 500 with CAIR panels, but from what research I've done it seems the CAIR panels are not all they're cracked up to be. The Isabella does sound good. |
Member: ajudson1 |
Posted on Tuesday, May 3, 2011 - 8:21 am: I don't ride in English saddles so don't know how this would work but for western saddles I like to put a shim under the tree in the front to make sure the shoulders are free. On my mare who has a hollowed back I need to put felt behind her shoulders in the low spot, and then I put thick foam farther up. It's not a perfect solution, lots of monkeying around so the saddle is secure yet and don't rock, but I can tell if it's correct or not by how she moves.I use one shim on each side for my other 2 horses. The saddle may look a bit higher in front from the ground, but it's not higher when I am in the saddle. On the Parelli website they show lots on shimming and sell the shims. I think you can print the pattern there, that is what I did, and make your own. There is another website that sells a set of shims for every problem imaginable. After reading on both sites, I really think every horse under any saddle would be more comfortable with shimming done to free up the shoulder. At least until all saddles are made with that in mind. |
Member: frances |
Posted on Tuesday, May 3, 2011 - 3:25 pm: Thanks a lot Angie. That gives me much food for thought, and I've been browsing through Parelli saddle and other sites which feature shims for the last hour. Found lots of information, some of it conflicting of course! |
Member: ajudson1 |
Posted on Tuesday, May 3, 2011 - 6:06 pm: Here's a link to my favorite site for shims:https://www.american-flex.com/pads.htm I love the set of felt shims for $60.00. I read some place, maybe on there, that felt (wool) is the only thing that should be used. Foam, neoprene, "air" or "gel" pockets don't work. Foam and neoprene flatten, slide, and air & gel don't stay consistent. Just today I tried to use 2 sets of my cut out foam shims...it was like the 2 together caused the blanket to shoot right out from under the saddle. Maybe I should quit being so cheap and just order that set already! Good luck. |
Member: frances |
Posted on Wednesday, May 4, 2011 - 12:08 pm: Great site, Angie. I have lots to study up on now!Thanks a lot. |
Member: lynnland |
Posted on Thursday, May 5, 2011 - 10:24 am: Hi LL,I must say that giving my horse a little extra room in the shoulder made a huge difference in how he moved. I purchased a semi-custom CWD jumping saddle that was build with extra width through the shoulder. It is not a wider tree but a different shape in the panel. Despite the fact that my horse is not considered particularly large (at least not in the jumping world). The day I tried about 4 saddles, after doing a warmup at a horse show. By saddle 3 he was getting more than a little irritated with the whole game then....tossed on saddle #4 (with the extra shoulder room) and he was one happy camper. It was so different that I was not convinced it was the saddle (my old one was a very good fit - or so I thought). However, I did end up purchasing a saddle with the extra shoulder room and the horse did indeed move better and appeared more comfortable. Although interesting to note that the CWD is much heavier than my previous saddle. I'm afraid I don't know anything about dressage saddles but I would think the trick is to find the right "design" and the right fit. Good luck |
Member: frances |
Posted on Thursday, May 5, 2011 - 2:33 pm: Thanks LynnL,That's the thing about saddles, if you're lucky you can hit upon the one in a million (well almost) that miraculously frees up your individual horse. Often the ones you think are going to fit .... just don't. You (and your horse) must be over the moon that you "tossed on saddle #4" and didn't stop at #3! I hope I have the same experience! |
Member: ajudson1 |
Posted on Friday, May 6, 2011 - 7:43 am: Somewhere I read that the saddle pad is the most important piece of tack you use! And after all I've read about shims, I'd have to say I think knowing how to use shims is equally important.I've also read that the gel pads, the air pads, and all the rest, are pretty much worthless. (After I paid lots for an impact gel pad!) Until saddle makers figure out to make a saddle with the horse in mind first, followed by the correct form for the rider, I say pads & shims are the most important things to consider. Then we need to move on to bits that come in sizes other than 5", lol! Let us know what you go with; always an interesting discussion. |
Member: frances |
Posted on Friday, May 6, 2011 - 9:15 am: I've always been told you should use the thinnest possible pad, otherwise the effect for the horse is similar to that of a human wearing socks which are far too thick and bulky for his shoes, i.e. tons of pressure. |
Member: frances |
Posted on Tuesday, May 24, 2011 - 6:37 am: An update: today the saddle-fitter brought a second hand though hardly used Frank Baines saddle for me to try on my horse, who is very difficult to fit. It actually FIT her (just a few adjustments needed), it's a dressage saddle and it's light ! I can't believe my luck!It's also very expensive Unfortunately I couldn't sit in it as I am only handwalking my horse at present following a back pain issue (hers!) and I didn't dare to put the weight on her, but if she continues to improve I hope to do so next week. |
Member: frances |
Posted on Sunday, May 29, 2011 - 11:54 am: I've found what I think is a great saddle fitting website: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U2mKz0uP_K8&NR=1Very clear and detailed. |
Member: tdiana |
Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 9:57 am: having a pad "shimable" pad is extremely worthwhile to have. If you have a good saddle, a shimable pad will allow you to make many changes as your horse's shape changes. I think this is also a good idea from a financial point of view. Very economical. |
Member: lilo |
Posted on Monday, May 30, 2011 - 10:33 am: I only watched the first part of the series - I think it is excellent. Will forward the link to my friend who is an English rider.Thanks for the link, LL. Lilo |