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HorseAdvice.com » Training & Conditioning Horses » Tack and Training » Bits and Bitting Horses » Fitting and sizing » |
Discussion on Bit Guards | |
Author | Message |
Member: Chohler |
Posted on Friday, Jun 24, 2005 - 2:46 pm: I have a really not headed gelding that I sent out for training, and he is doing awesome but they used a twisted wire dogbone snaffle on him, so he would stop going through the bit. He said it was just a temporary bit, and that he will be able to go back to a regular snaffle. Anyways my horse rubbed the corners of his mouth raw.My gelding is now back with me, and I don't want to use a twisted wire if i don't absolutely have to.( I know everyone doesn't like them but they do have their place, especially if you have tennis elbow or rehabing shoulders) I plan on using my myler comfort dee ring snaffle. Would putting a bit guard on my snaffle allow his lips to heal and stop becoming raw???? |
Member: Christos |
Posted on Friday, Jun 24, 2005 - 5:01 pm: Well, now, Cheryl, the horse did not rub the corners of his mouth all by himself, did he?I'd have really sued this guy if it was my horse. I would also refrain from bitting the horse until his lips heal. If he must work, I think some cream and a smooth, clean bit works better than guards. |
Member: Mrose |
Posted on Friday, Jun 24, 2005 - 6:04 pm: Also, make sure the bit fits correctly.(I'm with you, Christos.) |
Member: Kthorse |
Posted on Friday, Jun 24, 2005 - 9:39 pm: Can you use a bitless bridle or a sidlepull till his mouth heals. The bit is not the means of control only comunication. Some horses who refuse to respond in a kind bit do better in a jumping hackamore, bitless bridle etc.They have the same stopping power, The horse can relax and not fear the bit which can make him Hotter or more agrivated from the pain and frustration. Hot horses might behave for a while in a strong bit but will eventually start ignoring the pain and act the same as they were before. If not worse. I am glad that you are going back to a kinder bit but I do think for now maybe a bitless bridle. I have a hot arab and it can stop him on a dime. Good luck. |
Member: Ajudson1 |
Posted on Saturday, Jun 25, 2005 - 9:20 am: Aren't bit guards more for helping a too big bit fit a little bit better and stop it from sliding from side to side? I don't see how they would help with the sores.If I sent a horse out for training and he came back to me that way, I'd be more than a little peeved. This horse needs to be trained to soften from side to side, walk, halt, walk, halt, repeat, repeat, repeat.......My guess is you need to get his respect and attention on the ground, then from the saddle. Do nothing but walk, halt, repeat til he learns to listen to you and obey you. I agree with the above posts, use a sidepull, and take into account the suggestion you may very well have a bigger problem down the road. BTW, I have an Arab who has always had one speed; wide open. My fault, I rode her mostly at a ground covering trot for years. "monty foreman cowboy bit" 4 reins. Now my daughter is using her as a lesson horse at home to compliment the lessons she takes at a nearby stable. Useing a 3 part snaffle with the gentle link in the middle. This isn't the ideal horse for my daughter, but, you guessed it, we are doing walk, halt, repeat. Slow and calm. I also have a Myler bit for this girl, and I thought that was too much for "retraining". |
Member: Alden |
Posted on Saturday, Jun 25, 2005 - 9:49 pm: I agree with Christos about the trainer, I don't believe in stopping a horse with a bit. As someone else said the bit is to communicate your desire to the horse, the horse needs to know how to stop and then be taught to stop by a bit cue and the seat. So moving to a harsher bits to stop the horse tends to escalate until you really have problems.Teach the horse to stop from the ground, then from the saddle with only one rein and lots of lateral flexing; once he has that, then with two reins. There is a time for a harsher bit, but in my opinion that is only when the horse consistently lays on the current bit when you ask for lateral flexing. Good day Alden |
Member: Dres |
Posted on Saturday, Jun 25, 2005 - 10:10 pm: have to chime in with Alden, I bought a pony for my grand daughter to ride... she came with a harsh bit...cus this pony likes to go...my grand daughter 8 years old now does TONS of transitions on her... trot/ walk/trot / walk /halt.. till the pony listens to HER... interestingly enough .. IT WORKS... I have a 3 piece snaffle on her and the pony and my grand daughter are looking darn good... there are no short cuts... we always have to go back to basics... On the first day God created horses, on the second day he painted them with SPOTS.. |
Member: Kthorse |
Posted on Sunday, Jun 26, 2005 - 7:04 am: I did want to add one thing . If you do choose a 3 piece snaffle later after his mouth has healed. do not get a Dr Bristle. They are also harsh. They look almost the same as a french link , however they dont lay flat on the horses tongue ,making it harsh. The middle piece is usually longer and is at a slight angle on the bit. If you can get one with a nice oval lozenge in the middle. They are a milder bit than the myler. I like a KK bit . I have one that is not a KK but was $20.00 and is almost the same. A true french link is the next mildest. |
Member: Hwood |
Posted on Sunday, Jun 26, 2005 - 11:11 am: I know we have discussed the Dr. Bristol vs regular snaffle vs French Link . . . I have and do use all three and have to say that I don't believe that the Dr. Bristol is any more harsh. I have had no adverse effects from using the Dr. Bristol (without keepers) . . . no head-throwing or sore mouths or mouths opening on the bit . . . good, light response in both newly broke horses and old troopers. I really like the independent movement of the outside sections of a three-piece mouthpiece. From watching the movement of the bit, it seems to me that when I touch the rein or bring it back, the horse feels the pressure more in the corners of it's mouth rather than on the bars and tongue as he does in a two-piece mouthpiece . . . and the response I get is quicker and lighter. |
Member: Kthorse |
Posted on Sunday, Jun 26, 2005 - 12:37 pm: Holy ,In your hands The Dr Bristol would be a gentle bit. I also own one. I explained my self wrongIt is only in my oppinon a bit for experienced riders, not for someone who has a hard time stopping there horse's. I guess I did not explain my self. I just thought it might be to harsh for this particular horse. With everyone writing about 3 piece bits there are different ones and I just wanted to clarify the different choices. |
Member: Chohler |
Posted on Monday, Jun 27, 2005 - 12:10 pm: sorry I was riding all weekend. I have been rubbing aloe on the sores of my horse and massaging to help with potential scarring. I borrowed the trainers gear to try it and it was actually the nose band and the rein clips that was rubbing my horse raw, my horse is built very differently and it is very hard to make things fit, I had to special order new gear for my horse and I have started making my own bridle for him I measured everything and it will fit him to a tee. A TB size is not long enough, I had to punch extra holes in the headstall and it is set at the end of the leather. I finally found a draft size and it is long enough but I had to take in everything width wise. (PS he's a mustang)go figure. I think mule gear would actually work on him, but I haven't tried any.I have been riding him with the comfort snaffle but he has always been a fighter about anything. He is awesome about ground work but under saddle is different. He would make an excellent plow horse. No one had the strength to get him to flex. And by that I mean that, I wasn't that he didn't know how to he is just so big and strong and stiff that if he didn't want to he wouldn't. Although no one likes the twisted wire bit it did the job and I found out was not the reason for the raw lips. I can now trust my horse, especially after having my elbow worked on I don't have to fight him. My horse was worked on cattle and horses, and we successfully rounded up a runaway horse last night, and he fully listened to me. |
Member: kerrief |
Posted on Saturday, May 9, 2009 - 8:13 pm: Can anyone tell me how to put rubber bit guards on a myler comfort snaffle with tom thumb shanks?So far, all I've been able to accomplish is pushing my patience to the limit. Thanks! |
Moderator: DrO |
Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 8:19 am: Kerrie, Welcome ,Let me help you get started off right as there are several advantages to you if discussions are kept separate:
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Member: hollyw |
Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 9:14 am: Kerrie,Dr. O.'s post reminded me to try to answer your question. I had meant to, but must have gotten distracted. Did you put the bit guards in boiling water first? That really makes a difference. I'd slide them up the long shank and then stretch them over the ring and top shank. I don't remember seeing bit guards on a Tom Thumb, but if you can get them soft enough, It seems it would go on. Also, maybe you can use the long handles of a fencing tool or channel-lock wrench to help with stretching? |
Member: ajudson1 |
Posted on Monday, May 11, 2009 - 9:42 am: Kerrie,There are bit guards that come with velcro, have you seen them? Much easier to put on & off! Not sure if they are rubber, or more like neoprene though, have to check, I have some some place. They have a slit in them, so you just open them up, put them on, and close them. |