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  Discussion on Dr. Bristol and bit question
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Posted on Thursday, May 20, 1999 - 5:04 pm:

Ida,

A Dr. Bristol has a flat plate in the middle link. If you attach it to your bridle one way, the edge of the plate digs into the horse's tongue some. The other way, it lays flatter on the tongue. The latter way is milder.

It is my experience that as long as a bit is wide enough, not too thick or thin and, if the horse's palate is low, a french link rather than a snaffle, that most other things don't make much difference.

Usually, acceptance of the bit has to do with the rider's use of hands. (Incorrect saddle fit can pinch and cause hollowing of the back, too.)

Physical things to check would also include saddle placement - often people put them too far forward and they pinch the horse's shoulders and inhibit movement.

So, indirectly, I've suggested 1) bit fit check, 2) teeth check, 3) saddle fit, and 4) saddle placement as possible issues.

Now, a lot depends on your horse's age, training, your riding level, desires, is he spooking, getting adequate turnout, what is he fed (which may make him hot), etc.

All that aside, I think there is a clue in what you've written - when he fights your hand by inverting, he rounds when you give to him. That is a good sign.

I would try 1) lunging him for a few minutes before mounting, and slowly acclimating him to long side reins. The work on the lunge should be steady, quiet, encourage him reaching down and coming through behind. The idea is not to wear him out, but just to see where his mind his and allow him to warm up without having a rider disturb his balance. Then 2) I would ride him with very long reins at a walk, around the outside of your arena if possible. Work on relaxation and steady, quiet, forward, walk. Praise him by stroking his neck with your inside hand. Then, 3) after about 5-10 minutes, his back will feel loose and you can ask for a trot (with very long reins) on a 20 m. circle. If he scoots off at a trot, gently bring him back, perhaps with just one rein and walk the circle again. Ask for trot. When he is trotting quietly, you can begin to 4) gather the reins for a light steady contact. Don't worry about head set, frame, etc. Just look for continued relaxation, and a steady, equal contact on the reins. This is the beginning work for bit acceptance.

Also check your hands. Here is a check list to go through all the time. Thumbs up, pressing the reins against your index fingers so they won't slide long. Your ring fingers close and open to give him a rein aid - if he is good, leave your ring fingers curled, but relaxed. Your arms DrOp straight down to your hips, your elbows bend about 90 degrees and your hands are even in height, contact, etc. The reins should not slip. Your hands should be quiet and steady - you should not need them to maintain your balance at trot or canter. IF you choose a rein length, it may be a little heavy at first - work the horse from seat and legs, changing directions often, smaller to larger circles, etc. to create some lateral bend and supple him.

This sounds like a lot of work because it is. It takes a lot of time for a horse to move well under a rider. So, when he does invert, just gently correct, inside leg to outside hand, make a turn a circle, whatever to focus him and continue if not much as happened.

Over time your horse will learn if he gives to the bit (flexes front to back or longitudinally), he gets his own reward of lightness in hand. Then continue to push him forward (too light is bad - behind the bit) praise. Verbal praise is nice, coupled with a stroke of the inside hand - it is a reward to give some with the inside rein.

He will learn if you are consistent and patient.

Most of us learned about bits the hard way - we bought a bunch and none of them were magic. There is not substitute for time in the saddle and consistent, effective riding.

Cheers!

Posted on Friday, May 21, 1999 - 7:52 am:

Hi Ida,

I really have no advice to add to Chris' excellent suggestions, but I am going to recommend a book:
"Cross-Train your horse" by Jane Savoie. It's breaks down early dressage training step by step and has beutiful pictures to illustrate points. Her techniques will be helpful no matter what equine discipline you subscribe to. I think you'll find it helpful.


Good luck

Teresa

Posted on Wednesday, May 26, 1999 - 3:35 pm:

Hi Ida,

There's nothing like work to calm a horse. I will use the trot and lots of changes (figure 8's, serpentines, etc.) when my horse is feeling frisky. The point is you know what is working with your horse and so can be prepared and ready. I used to ride a horse that would bolt the moment my thoughts wandered (obviously he was phsycic). Also if you use a similar warm up every time your horse will learn to pace himself and save up for the work later./

In regards to half halts they should be gentle, same as the leg. I believe that it's better to train your horse to be light off the leg and hand rather then always needing 100%. Keep this current trainer

good luck

Tersa
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